Folegandros: the secret alternative to Santorini
When I came across Jade Conroy’s article ‘the secret alternative to Santorini’ (published in the Telegraph on 22nd February), Folegandros immediately sprang to my mind. I was right.
One of the least known Greek islands, Folegandros is only an hour away (on the ferry) from the world-famous Santorini. This rather small Cycladic island is located in the southern Aegean Sea, nested between Milos and Kimolos on the west, and Sikinos and Ios on the east (Santorini is further on the east).
An off-the-beaten-track island, Folegandros has a small population of fewer than 1000 inhabitants. Every summer, however, it comes to life thanks to a wave of mostly Greek, young, hipster and arty visitors, who seek an alternative, more authentic and less crowded destination than Mykonos or Santorini.
Top 7 tips by an (almost) local:
Tip 1: Wander around Hora
Whitewashed houses. Blushing bougainvilleas. Cobbled alleyways. Welcome to Hora, the charming inland capital of Folegandros. Built on the edge of a 200-meter high cliff, Hora is where the heart of the island beats. Ditch your map (if you have one) and simply wander around the village taking in the friendly atmosphere. Color-coded tables and chairs from the inviting taverns in the squares of the village (see tip 5) provide a picture-perfect backdrop. Then, stroll around Kastro, the oldest part of Hora, before you make your way to the church of Panagia (see tip 2). Some of the houses here are a thousand-year-old.
Tip 2: Watch the sunset from the church of Panagia
Dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, the whitewashed church of Panagia is the landmark of Folegandros. The ascending path is easy to climb (no more than 15 minutes from Hora), and it will reward you with panoramic views of the island. Evenings are the best time to visit, so you can watch the sunset.
Tip 3: Go to the beach
Despite being a small island, Folegandros has a number of beaches perfect for swimming and sunbathing. Unlike Halkidiki, where the beaches are highly organized, or Sifnos, where you will find waterside taverns serving delicious food, beaches here have no such facilities (except for those close to the port of Karavostasis and the coastal village of Agali). So, come prepared.
Your choice of beach will depend on the wind, so make sure you ask the locals first.
The port of Karavostasis is situated on the east coast of Folegandros. Upon your arrival to the island, you will notice the beaches of Vardia and Hohlidia on your right and left-hand side respectively. Moving clockwise, there are the beaches of Latinaki, Vitsentzou, and Pountaki, all within walking distance from the port.
Katergo: my favorite beach
Further west, there’s the beach of Livadi (1.2 km from Karavostasis), which can be reached by road, and then Katergo, which can be reached either by boat (10-minute ride from the port) (reason no 1 why this is my favorite beach on Folegandros), or on foot (30-minute walk from Karavostasis). There’s a small islet in the middle of the bay (reason no 2), where you can easily swim and then explore barefoot. Amongst the young crowd, you may spot a few naturalists at the far end of the beach (reason no 3 – I’m only joking!).
The beach of Fira is a 15-minute walk from the village of Agali on the west coast of the island. The beach of Galyfos is a 10-minute walk from Agali, but on the opposite direction (there’s also the beach of Agali nestled between Fira and Galyfos). Agios Nikolaos is a 15-minute walk from Agali (same direction as Galyfos); surprisingly, it is home to a couple of seaside taverns. Alternatively, it can be reached by boat from Agali, as is the case for the beach of Livadaki (not to be confused with Livadi).
On the northern part of the island, you’ll find the beaches of Ampeli, Ligaria and Agios Georgios (all accessible by road). On the contrary, the beaches of Serfiotiko and Vorina can only be reached by boat or on foot.
Other than the boat rides which can take you to the island’s beaches, there are also boat tours that take you close to the caves of Hrisospilia and Georgitsi on the east and south coast of Folegandros respectively.
Tip 4: Follow the trails
Like Sifnos and Amorgos, Folegandros offers a few designated hiking trails:
From Hora, you can hike to the beach of Fira and then to Agali. On your way there, you will pass by the chapel of Agios Savvas and the church of Stavros. Jumping from terrace to terrace is also part of the route, and as fun as it sounds.
Or, you can follow the donkey trail from Hora to the village of Petousis, and then continue to the beach of Livadi and arrive at the port of Karavostasis.
The trails from Hora to the village of Ano Meria are longer; of those, the trail that passes by the beach of Livadaki is the longest, but very scenic. There’s another, shorter trail passing by the churches of Agia Paraskevi and Stavros.
From Ano Meria, there are quite a few trails worth following. You can walk towards the beach of Agios Georgios (bypassing the church of Agios Sostis), or to the beach of Ampeli (bypassing Agios Panteleimon). Another trail takes you to the beach of Livadaki and then to the Aspropounta lighthouse.
Tip 5: Savor the local cuisine
Like with most Greek islands, the local cuisine has a few unique dishes that you won’t find anywhere else: matsata (homemade pasta served with locally produced cheese, and rabbit, goat or chicken in a tomato sauce) and kalasouna (onion and cheese pie). As far as desserts are concerned, try both karpouzenia (griddle-cake made with watermelon and honey topped with sesame and usually served with ice-cream on the side) and biskotenia (layers of biscuits with vanilla and chocolate cream).
Hora is no short of taverns. One of the most famous is ‘I Piatsa’; it is often fully packed, albeit for a very good reason. It scores top marks on both food and atmosphere. Other highly recommended taverns are ‘To Chic’, ‘To Asygkrito’ and ‘I Pounta’. If you fancy something more sophisticated, then try ‘Eva’s Garden’, a gourmet restaurant with a modern but tasteful take on the Cycladic cuisine.
Ano Meria also has its share of taverns. Highly recommended are ’Eirini’, ‘I Synantisi’ and ‘O Mimis’.
Tip 6: Join the party
After dinner, join the millennials for a drink or two in Hora. ‘Baraki’ is a charming cocktail bar, whereas ‘Astarti’ has a more retro vibe; try rakomelo, a traditional alcoholic drink made with raki, honey, and spices (cinnamon and cardamom).
Tip 7: Immerse yourself into the Greek culture
The village of Ano Meria is home to the Ecological and Folklore Museum, housed in an old farmhouse.
If you visit Folegandros in the summer, you may have the chance to attend an open-air concert in Hora. A few years ago, Dimitra Galani, one of my favorite Greek singers, performed there.
How to get there
Folegandros has no airport. There are daily ferries from Piraeus (the port of Athens) to Karavostasis; Seajets is the fastest at four hours (60-70 euros). There are also ferries from other Cycladic islands, such as Sifnos and Santorini, which has an airport. Check out the ferries timetable here.
If you’re planning to visit several islands, the Eurail Greek Islands Pass is worth considering.
Renting a car is not necessary; there are regular bus services from Hora to Karavostasis and to the other villages.
When and how long to visit Folegandros
For me, the best time to visit Folegandros (and the Greek islands in general) is the summer; this is when the ferries are at their most frequent, the weather at its warmest and the atmosphere at its best. If you’re planning an island-hopping holiday, July and August are the best months. I would recommend staying there for at least three days.
Accommodation
Hora is the best place to stay; you could rent a room or a house/apartment there.
Further reading
To better prepare for my trip, I used the Lonely Planet Greek Islands Travel Guide
Folegandros in close proximity to a large number of charming islands. Read my 2-week itinerary around the Cyclades here.
You can easily combine Folegandros with Santorini, Sifnos and Serifos.
For further information on the hiking trails on Folegandros, click here and here.
The islands of Amorgos and Sifnos are also renowned for their hiking trails.
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Have a great journey!
Alex
(the Traveling Psychiatrist)