Serifos: the Greek island where time stands still

In June 2017, Kate Lough shared her ‘10 reasons why you should visit the Greek island of Serifos’. She wrote that she ‘found a Greece that seemed to have stood still since the 1960s and where island life remains unspoiled by mass tourism’. I visited Serifos a year later, in August 2018. Oblivious to Kate’s article at the time, I came to the same realization: Serifos reminded me of a Greece of a different era: it was the Greece that starred in the 1960s movies I used to watch as a child. Again and again, during my time on this small Greek island, the phrase ‘time stands still’ came to my mind.

Located in the western Cyclades, south of Kythnos and north of Sifnos, which I also visited last summer, Serifos has a small population of just over 1,000. Due to its close proximity to Piraeus, the port of Athens (2 hours by ferry), the island comes to life in the summer, when Athenians seek to escape the heat of the capital. Yet, as I discovered, it is not only Greeks that frequent Serifos; Italian and French speakers are also amongst the summer visitors. Despite this, Serifos remains relatively unknown to most foreign travelers, and therefore, as Kate says, ‘unspoiled by mass tourism’.

It is not only time that stands still in Serifos. As a visitor, I found myself slowing down and standing still, whether soaking up the sun on one of the many beaches of the island, sipping a glass of wine under the moonlight sky, or balancing a yoga pose.

Top 7 tips by an (almost) local:

Tip 1: Spend a morning in Hora

Like with many other Greek islands, Hora is the name of the capital of Serifos. Built on the slopes of a hill, it is a whitewashed village overlooking the port of Livadi and all the while offering panoramic views of the Aegean Sea.

Start your day at Pano Piatsa, Hora’s main square. Here you’ll find the neoclassical town hall and the Greek Orthodox church of Agios Athanasios, as well as colorful chairs and tables from the cozy cafes around the square. The turquoise ones are from ‘Stou Stratou’, the khaki ones from ‘Piazza’; both cafes are excellent choices for breakfast, brunch or coffee. Make sure you try ‘pastaki’, the chocolate dessert that Serifos is famous for.

Then walk up to Kastro (Castle) and to the chapel of Agios Konstantinos to enjoy the most panoramic views of the island.

Tip 2: Spend a day on the beach

Preparing for my trip, I read that Serifos has over 70 beaches. Now, it’d be a blatant lie if I said I’d been to all of them. Making friends with the locals, however, saved me time and helped me decide which ones to visit.

One of the most famous and my personal favorite is Agios Sostis. For this east-facing beach takes its name from the chapel overlooking the small bay. The beach is neither organized nor has any facilities (whether a beach bar, tavern or even a canteen); so make sure you bring a beach towel, a book, food, and water if you are to spend the day there. Hotel Rizes (perfect place for a yoga class) is not far from here.

From Agios Sostis, continue anti-clockwise to Psili Ammos, another beach on the east coast of Serifos, and from there to Platys Gialos and Sykamia, both on the north coast.

Tip 3: Spend another day on the beach

Vagia is another beach, located on the south coast of Serifos. Here you can find a small beach bar offering snacks and refreshing cocktails. It is also home to Coco-Mat Eco Residences.

Tip 4: Enjoy a meal at the port

On the south coast of the island, you’ll also find the port of Livadi. This is much more than the port of entry to the island (Serifos has no airport): it is also a lively village home to some excellent waterfront restaurants and taverns.

Kali’s is one of the most famous; the dish that really stood out was the salad (Salata Krasiou): green leaves topped with caramelized figs, pomegranate seeds, manouri cheese, and red wine vinaigrette.

Another restaurant I’d recommend is Ydrolithos, located on a rooftop terrace.

After dinner, have a cocktail at the rooftop bar Shark, or at the Yacht Club, the locals’ favorite.

Tip 5: Walk from Hora down to Aloni

From Hora, take the path that goes down to Livadi. You will pass by a number of blue-domed churches and chapels (I actually lost count). Half-way down, there’s Aloni, a restaurant offering traditional Cycladic food and wonderful views of the port down below. Perfect pitstop to watch the sunset from and enjoy the local cuisine.

Tip 6: Down the dog

Walking around the island, I kept on seeing posters advertising yoga sessions. Being a yoga enthusiast, I wasn’t hard to convince to join one. Yogi Hara Pilianidou offers evening sessions on Avlomonas beach, whereas Despina Mesimvrinou offers both morning and evening sessions at Hotel Rizes.

Tip 7: Have a cocktail in Hora

Finish off the day where it all started: in Hora. There are several bars here inviting you to join the lively crowd and enjoy a cocktail under the moonlight sky. Vatrahos, Gaidaros, and Aerino are all great choices. In the peak season, some of these bars open early in the day to also serve brunch.

How to get there

Serifos has no airport. There are daily ferries from Piraeus (the port of Athens) to Livadi; Seajets is the fastest at two hours (approx. 50 euros). There are also ferries from other Cycladic islands, such as the neighbouring Kythnos and Sifnos, as well as Folegandros and Santorini, which has an airport. Check out the ferries timetable here.

If you’re planning to visit several islands, the Eurail Greek Islands Pass is worth considering.

Renting a car is recommended; in peak season, do this well in advance. In case you’ve decided not to rent a car, there are regular bus services from Livadi to Hora and also to the beaches.

When and how long to visit Serifos

For me, the best time to visit Serifos (and the Greek islands in general) is the summer; this is when the ferries are at their most frequent, the weather at its warmest and the atmosphere at its best. If you’re planning an island-hopping holiday, July and August are the best months. However, avoid late August when the winds get too strong. I would recommend staying there for at least three days.

Accommodation

Hotel Rizes and Coco-Mat Eco Residences stand out. Alternatively, rent a room or a house in Hora.

Further reading

To better prepare for my trip, I used the Lonely Planet Greek Islands Travel Guide

For more tips, check out Marissa’s blog.

Serifos in close proximity to a large number of charming islands. Read my 2-week itinerary around the Cyclades here.

If you’re looking for the ultimate Greek island of wellness and wellbeing, visit Skyros.

To follow my travels around the world, simply subscribe to the Traveling Psychiatrist (just click on the menu on the left-hand side).

Have a great journey!

Alex

(the Traveling Psychiatrist)