#EatSurfCoffeeRepeat in Siargao
Siargao is world-renowned as the surfing capital of the Philippines, thanks in large part to the legendary Cloud 9 wave. When I recently travelled to the Philippines, I spent more than a week on the island. That said, I did not surf at Cloud 9 itself, but at Paradise and Talisay instead.
Finding a surf school is easy. I personally surfed with Marama Surf Club. A two-hour lesson costs 1,400 pesos (£17), though you can get a small discount if you buy a five- or ten-lesson pass.
Beyond surfing, Siargao is equally loved for its laid-back island atmosphere, with trendy cafés and restaurants lining the main road in General Luna, as well as plenty of yoga shalas (including those at Kermit and Buddha Resort).
I attended classes at both Kermit and Buddha Resort. Each session costs 500 pesos (£6), though discounts are available if you purchase three-, five-, or ten-class passes.
If you feel like taking a break from the waves, island-hopping tours will take you to Naked Island, Daku Island, and Guyam Island. Personally, I preferred to surf every day instead.
Where to eat and drink in Siargao
Corner Café
This was the first café I visited in Siargao. I was drawn in by its laid-back energy, perfectly summed up by the words written beneath the sign: #EatSurfCoffeeRepeat.
Siargao Books Café
A cosy and characterful café that combines great coffee with a love of books. It is the perfect place to slow down for a while, whether browsing the shelves or simply enjoying a quiet moment. I stopped by one afternoon for a coffee and found the atmosphere warm, relaxed, and inviting.
Bum Brew
Another small, laid-back café with a cool local feel. A great place for quality coffee and a breather after surfing. Simple, unpretentious, and entirely in tune with Siargao’s easygoing rhythm.
Beachbaby Café
A fantastic café, perfect for an early breakfast or a relaxed brunch. It is located opposite Vivo Inn, where I stayed. I came here several times and tried a variety of smoothie bowls, as well as the chocolate pancakes with sliced bananas and honey — all delicious.
Extension
A beautiful cocktail bar located above Beachboys Café and Las Barricas restaurant. I arrived early and ordered a Smokey Old Fashioned. There is live music every night except Thursdays from 10 pm, making it an ideal place to ease into the evening.
Bar Ciao IAO
A lovely restaurant next to Beachbaby Café and Extension that I visited twice. I tried the pizza and a couple of cocktails, both of which were excellent. On Tuesdays, there is live music, and happy hour runs until closing — always a bonus.
La Carinderia
A roadside Italian-Filipino restaurant opposite Bar Ciao IAO that blends two culinary worlds beautifully. While the menu features plenty of Italian classics, I chose a Filipino favourite: an adobo rice bowl — marinated chicken with red wine, garlic, soy sauce, and vinegar, served with fried rice, chicharrones, and a fried egg. For dessert, I had the ube tiramisu — an absolute must-try — paired with an Engkanto Ube Lager. Fusion cuisine at its best.
Las Barricas
A refined and elegant restaurant serving Spanish and Mexican cuisine, right behind Beachbaby Café. I went for the stuffed peppers and tacos — both beautifully presented and full of flavour. A great option for a slightly more elevated dining experience in Siargao.
Gwapitos
A small boutique shop and café right next to Bar Ciao IAO, full of charm. The iced ube latte is a must (and yes, it contains caffeine). I enjoyed mine sitting on a surfboard outside the shop — very much in keeping with Siargao’s laid-back, surfy vibe.
Lunares Café
A charming little café with a relaxed, easygoing feel. It is a lovely place to pause for a coffee or a light bite, whether you are starting your day or taking a break from surfing. I stopped by for an afternoon coffee and enjoyed the laid-back atmosphere.
Sanabowl Superfood Café
Another go-to spot for a healthy start to the day. I came here several times for breakfast and, without fail, ordered a smoothie bowl and a coffee. Fresh, nourishing, and consistently good — exactly what you want in Siargao.
Copacabana Café
I stopped by Copacabana for an afternoon coffee and absolutely loved it. The setting is calm and inviting, with a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere — perfect for slowing down and escaping the midday heat.
Amon
Amon is a beautiful, design-forward spot in Siargao that strikes the perfect balance between style and comfort. The space feels calm and thoughtfully curated, making it an ideal place to start the day or slow down for a while.
White Beard Coffee Shop
Judging by the name, I expected it to be filled with expats and tourists, so I was pleasantly surprised to find it packed with locals instead. I came for breakfast and had a creamy cold brew alongside waffles with fruit — a very generous portion that took me quite a while to finish, despite the quick service. In addition to waffles and French toast (often served with savoury toppings such as bacon and scrambled eggs), they also offer a range of Filipino dishes.
The Hub by Lokal Lab
A little hidden and slightly removed from the more touristy parts of General Luna, but well worth seeking out — especially if you are in the mood for Filipino food. I came for dinner and had the adobo rice bowl, a true local classic, done very well.
Manu
An absolute gem in Siargao. Slightly removed from the main cluster of bars, but well worth the detour. Elegant and sophisticated, with a creative cocktail menu — including one named after Gucci, the dog. A truly memorable spot for a refined evening.
Kermit Surf Resort and Restaurant
A great spot with a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere and Japanese-style seating. It is located directly beneath the yoga shala where I practised half the time. I had the surfer’s pizza and enjoyed it so much that I returned for a second visit.
Silk Road
Silk Road is located within the grounds of Buddha Resort, where I practised yoga the other half of the time. It offers Asian-inspired flavours.
Spotted Pig Café
A small roadside café between General Luna and Cloud 9 that I visited twice. I stopped by for lunch and ordered what turned out to be one of the best light meals I have ever had: pumpkin toast — two poached eggs on toasted white bread topped with cinnamon-honey mashed pumpkin and calamansi zest. Simple, but perfect. While eating, I picked up a book from a small shelf: What Would the Buddha Recycle? by Rosemary Roberts.
Kawayan Gourmand French Bakery
Another lovely, laid-back spot on the main road, very close to Cloud 9. I came here for lunch and had a slice of pizza with an iced coffee — simple, satisfying, and enjoyed in a relaxed setting.
Ver De
I stopped by Ver De for a mid-morning coffee and really enjoyed both the drink and the atmosphere. The food menu looked tempting, and there is also a good selection of local beers — definitely a place I would return to. It is also very close to Cloud 9.
El Carabao
This is the restaurant at Ferra Resort, where I also stayed. The setting is beautiful and peaceful, with reliable Wi-Fi — ideal if you are working remotely. I visited for breakfast/brunch and tried the pancakes, a smoothie bowl, and coffee — all thoroughly enjoyable.
Halika
A must-try for ice cream lovers. I sampled two flavours: the purple ube cheese and the vibrant blue Siargao (butterfly pea with lime). Both were delicious — and at 200 pesos (£2.50), excellent value.
All About Cocoo
A fantastic spot for a refreshing dessert. Their base is made from coconut cream and coconut ice, topped with a variety of ingredients. The combination of textures and flavours works surprisingly well. I chose the Jack & Ube — a delicious mix of coconut and ube that I would happily have again.
When to visit Siargao
The monsoon season in Siargao, driven by the Northeast Monsoon (Amihan), generally lasts from November to February, bringing heavy rainfall, winds, and a higher likelihood of storms, particularly in December and January. Flights are often cancelled “due to weather disruptions and safety constraints.”
October is a transition month with increasing rain, while the peak dry and surfing season runs from March to September.
How to get to Siargao and where to stay
Flying to Siargao is faster and easier than travelling by boat, though flights are often cancelled during the monsoon season. The flight from Cebu takes around an hour. There are also flights from Manila and several other domestic airports.
Siargao Airport is located around a 40-minute drive from General Luna, where many cafés, restaurants, and hotels are based.
I split my stay between two hotels. I first stayed at Vivo Inn, located in General Luna, then moved to Ferra Resort, which is 4 km away. The former is closer to Cloud 9 than Paradise, while the latter is in Malinao, between General Luna and Paradise/Talisay.
I enjoyed both hotels and would happily recommend either. Vivo Inn is more centrally located, while Ferra Resort is more upscale, though outside town. Both have outdoor pools, with the one at Ferra Resort being larger.
Most people — locals, expats, and tourists alike — get around by scooter. I preferred to rent a bicycle instead. I rented mine from Kalipay (250 pesos / £3 per day).
Further reading
To better prepare for my trip, I used the Lonely Planet Philippines Travel Guide.
Alex
(the Traveling Psychiatrist)