Where to eat and drink in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is widely regarded as Mexico’s culinary capital. Its markets are filled with the scent of toasted chillies and fresh masa, and its cuisine is famous for complex mole sauces—particularly mole negro—alongside tlayudas, memelas, and rich hot chocolate frothed with cinnamon. Chapulines (toasted grasshoppers) appear as a salty snack or taco filling, while smoky mezcal from the surrounding valleys is often enjoyed during long, relaxed evenings. In this post, I share my favourite places in Oaxaca for food and drinks.

Cafés in Oaxaca:

Café Brújula Alcalá

Café Brújula Alcalá is my favourite café in Oaxaca. Despite its central location (very close to the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption – Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción), the courtyard feels like a quiet oasis away from the bustle of the surrounding streets. There’s also a bookshop next door, well worth browsing after your cup.

Oaxaca en una taza

This is another beautiful café and bakery, just steps from Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán—one of Oaxaca’s true must-visit landmarks. The church is an architectural masterpiece, with its ornate Baroque façade and an opulent, gold-leaf interior that reflects the city’s rich colonial history. Even if you’re not usually drawn to religious sites, it’s worth stepping inside to admire the intricate details and the sense of grandeur.

After visiting the church, I settled into the café’s cosy seating area arranged around a small patio. The atmosphere felt calm and intimate, making it the perfect spot to relax with a coffee and a freshly baked pineapple pastry while soaking up the charm of the city.

Café Caracol Purpura

This cute café sits slightly uphill, but it’s still close to the heart of Oaxaca and well worth the short walk. It’s just around the corner from the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, one of the most important and beloved churches in the city. Dedicated to Oaxaca’s patron saint, the basilica is an elegant example of Baroque architecture, with a striking stone façade and a serene interior that draws both worshippers and visitors. The plaza in front often has a lively yet local feel, adding to the charm of the area.

At the café, I ordered an iced coffee infused with orange and mandarin — absolutely delicious and wonderfully refreshing, especially after walking uphill. In addition to great drinks, they also sell a thoughtful selection of souvenirs, along with locally sourced coffee beans and chocolate, making it a perfect spot to pick up gifts. Before you leave, be sure to admire the impressive murals right next to the café; they add a vibrant artistic touch to the neighbourhood and are worth a closer look.

Yegole

This is a great spot for brunch — or simply a relaxed coffee — conveniently located right next to the hotel where I stayed. The setting is especially lovely, with a beautiful courtyard that creates a calm and inviting atmosphere, perfect for lingering a little longer than planned.

Gatto

As the name suggests, Gatto is an adorable, cat-themed café with plenty of charm. It’s quite small, though — there are only three tables — so seating is limited. When I visited, I was lucky enough to find one free. I ordered an espresso tonic and a slice of passion fruit cheesecake, a combination that felt both refreshing and indulgent.

Lunch:

For lunch, I highly recommend heading to the Mercado Central de Abastos for a truly local experience. Memelas Doña Vale is a must-visit, but you’ll need to arrive early — they often sell out quickly. By the time I got there, Doña Vale had already packed up for the day, which tells you just how popular her stall is. Luckily, I was still able to find another stand to try memelas.

Memelas are a traditional Oaxacan street food: thick, hand-pressed corn tortillas that are lightly grilled and topped with asiento (unrefined pork lard), black beans, fresh cheese, salsa, and sometimes additional toppings like shredded meat or nopales. They’re simple but incredibly flavourful, with the slightly crisp exterior giving way to a soft, warm centre. Eating them at the market, surrounded by the buzz of vendors and locals, made the experience all the more authentic.

Before dinner:

As well as Mexico’s culinary capital, Oaxaca is also a vibrant hub for street art, with the most concentrated, artistic murals found in the colorful, cobblestoned Jalatlaco neighborhood and the historic Xochimilco neighborhood. The latter (not to be confused with Xochimilco in Mexico City) is known as the oldest neighborhood in Oaxaca, and offers a blend of historical architecture and modern, artistic murals.

Casa del Elfo

On my way back from Xochimilco, I was lured in by the sound of live jazz drifting through the air. It was a Sunday evening, and a band was playing from 5 to 7 pm, setting the perfect soundtrack for the end of the weekend. The atmosphere was warm and relaxed, and the music made the whole experience feel effortlessly special. It turned into one of those wonderful Sunday evenings I know I’ll remember for a long time.

Rooftop bar at Otro Hotel

The rooftop bar at Otro Oaxaca offers panoramic views across Oaxaca — including incredible sights of the historic streets and the dome of the nearby Santo Domingo church — especially at sunset. Perched beside a long rooftop pool and set amid greenery and limestone floors, the bar serves delicious mezcal-based cocktails, making it a perfect place to relax with a drink while taking in the skyline and vibrant atmosphere below.

Dinner – restaurants in Oaxaca:

Unsurprisingly, Oaxaca is home to an incredible number of excellent restaurants. To avoid disappointment, however, it’s wise to book in advance — especially for dinner.

El Tendajon

A beautiful restaurant in the heart of Oaxaca’s historic centre, El Tendajón impressed from start to finish. The food was delicious, and the cocktails were just as memorable — I especially loved the oaxaquito and the mezcamoto. My friend and I shared the fish ceviche and the trilogía of quesadillas to start, both fresh and full of flavour. For my main, I chose the fettuccine with mushrooms and shrimp, which had a wonderful smoky depth that tied the dish together perfectly.

Casa Oaxaca

This stunning rooftop restaurant sits just behind the Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, offering a magical setting for dinner. I went on a Saturday night, and a live band playing in the ground-floor patio provided the perfect soundtrack to the evening. I ordered turkey with mole negro and plantain purée — rich, complex, and beautifully balanced — along with a mezcal-based cocktail, the delicia de tamarindo. For dessert, I chose the sinfonía de mamey, a creative and elegant finish to the meal. Overall, it was a delightful dining experience and one I would highly recommend.

Los Danzantes

Another excellent spot where I dined with my friend and travelling companion, Susana, Los Danzantes is as beautiful as it is delicious. I had tlayudas for my main — a classic Oaxacan dish elevated with refined presentation — and we shared a selection of moles to start, which was a fantastic way to sample the region’s iconic flavours. To drink, we each ordered a cocktail; mine was the molegroni, a creative twist that worked surprisingly well.

Levadura de Olla

Levadura de Olla is another highly recommended restaurant in Oaxaca. I loved both the vibrant atmosphere and the thoughtful, ingredient-driven cuisine. My cocktail — made with corn whiskey, lime, and passion fruit — was refreshing and distinctive. To begin, we shared a colourful selection of local tomatoes (around a dozen varieties), which beautifully showcased the region’s produce. For my main, I had tamales with mole, deeply flavourful and comforting. I ended the meal with a rich chocolate dessert and a warming café de olla — the perfect conclusion to a memorable evening.

Asador Bocanora

Asador Bocanora was another fantastic choice. I ordered the pork with black mole and plantains — a rich and beautifully balanced plate. The pork was tender and perfectly cooked, with a subtle smokiness that complemented the deep, complex notes of the mole negro. The plantains added a gentle sweetness, tying everything together and creating that signature Oaxacan contrast of savoury, sweet, and spice. It was a memorable dish that showcased the region’s culinary traditions while still feeling refined and modern.

After dinner – bars in Oaxaca:

El Espacio

This small cocktail bar is a great find, especially as it stays open late — perfect if you’re not ready to call it a night. The atmosphere is intimate and relaxed, making it an easy place to settle in for a drink or two. I had two cocktails, and both were excellent — well balanced, creative, and beautifully presented.

Sobrio by Mezcal

Sobrio is a fantastic spot for mezcal-based cocktails. I ordered the oaxagroni, a local twist on the classic Negroni, and also tried a shot of sotol — a lesser-known Mexican spirit with earthy, herbal notes. As the evening progressed, a DJ began playing, and by the end of the night the place had transformed into a lively dance floor. The atmosphere was electric — such a fun, vibrant night out.

Sabina Sabe

Sabina Sabe is both a cocktail bar and a restaurant, and it’s widely regarded as one of the best cocktail bars in North America (ranked No. 54 in 2025). I stopped by for drinks only and ordered the guayabo verde, a mezcal-based cocktail that was fresh, complex, and beautifully executed. The attention to detail and creativity behind the bar are evident in every sip.

Selva

Selva (not to be confused with La Selva de los Gatos) is another standout, ranked No. 29 among North America’s best bars in 2025. I was lucky enough to get in without a wait — not always a given at such a sought-after spot. I tried two cocktails, the guava martini and the Viva la Vida highball, and both were exceptional: inventive, balanced, and full of flavour. A truly world-class cocktail experience in the heart of Oaxaca, opposite to the Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.

And a cat café in Oaxaca…

La Selva De Los Gatos

This is a proper cat café, home to dozens of friendly felines roaming around and happily interacting with visitors. Entry costs 50 pesos for adults, which is fully redeemable against food or drinks — a nice bonus. It’s the perfect spot for cat lovers and a wonderfully relaxing place to spend an hour or two surrounded by purring company.

Where to stay in Oaxaca

I stayed at Casa de la Tia Tere, a family-run hotel in the historic centre of Oaxaca, in a classic colonial building with peaceful courtyards, a solar-heated pool, and plenty of character. I really enjoyed starting my days with breakfast on the terrace — a quiet oasis amid the vibrant streets of Oaxaca.

Further reading

To better prepare for my trip, I used the Lonely Planet Mexico Travel Guide.

If you combine Oaxaca with a visit to Mexico City, check out my post “20+1 places to eat and drink in Mexico City“.

Alex

(the Traveling Psychiatrist)