First time in Japan: a 3-week itinerary

A dream has come true. Earlier this year, I finally visited Japan, a country that I’ve been fascinated with since I can remember. The land of the rising sun, a land of contrasts, which complement rather than contradict each other. Old and new, geishas in kimonos, elderly chefs preparing sushi, and, tradition and cutting edge technology, tea ceremonies and bullet trains, ichigo ichie and ikigai, Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, the largest metropolis in the world and the Mount Fuji, gardens and cherry blossoms, Harajuku, Shinjuku and Shibuya. Add cuteness (see the ubiquitous maneki neko), delicious food, haiku poetry and the ever-so-popular literature to the mix, and you can see why. My first time in Japan was for 3 weeks, during which I visited 12 of the 48 prefectures.

In hindsight, there are places where I would’ve stayed more (the smaller towns), and others where I would’ve stayed less (the larger cities). This is a 3-week itinerary I would recommend to those who visit Japan for the first time. Of course, it only covers part of the country, specifically central and western Honshu, which is home to some of Japan’s most famous cities (Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka), the iconic Mount Fuji, and lesser-known places also well worth a visit.

I strongly believe Japan is a country to visit more than once, not only because there are so many places to explore, but also because it can look so different depending on the time of the year.

I arrived in Tokyo early on a Monday morning, having departed from London early on a Sunday morning. The flight time is 13 hours and the time difference is 9 hours, so if you take a direct flight from Europe, you arrive in Japan almost at the same time as your departure, but on the following day. Despite not having slept much on the plane, I set off to explore the Japanese capital and make the most of my time in the country straight away.

My first time in Japan: chasing the ubiquitous maneki neko

If this is also your first time in Japan, I recommend you take a Saturday morning flight, so you will arrive in Tokyo on Sunday morning. If this is not convenient, then you can take an evening flight (on Friday or Saturday) so you will arrive in the evening of the following day (Saturday or Sunday, respectively). My 3-week itinerary starts on Monday morning (following a good night’s rest) and concludes on Sunday morning (3 weeks later).

Week 1: Tokyo, Lake Kawaguchi, Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go

Sunday-Wednesday: Tokyo

I stayed in Tokyo both at the start and the end of my trip. I recommend staying there for five non-consecutive nights at the start of your trip (to allow for an overnight stay at Fujikawaguchiko), then coming back at the end of your trip for a few more nights. Each time I came to Tokyo, I stayed at different hotels (see below for my hotel recommendations).

Jimbocho, also known as Book Town, is one of my favourite neighbourhoods in Tokyo

The Japanese capital is part of the largest metropolitan area in the world, but don’t let this overwhelm you. I personally enjoyed walking around different parts of the city, and stopping by at small, quirky cafes, bars and restaurants. Shinjuku and Shibuya are home to some of my favourite bars and restaurants, as well as to the famous Shinjuku 3d cat billboard (a 3D LED advertising display that features a giant, animated cat) and Shibuya Crossing (the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing) respectively. One of my favourite neighbourhoods is Jimbocho (or Jinbocho). Known as Book Town, it is home to more than one hundred bookstores, as well as many cafes and curry restaurants.

the famous Shinjuku 3d cat billboard — The famous Shinjuku 3d cat billboard

For specific recommendations on cafes and bars, check my posts ‘My 13 (+1) favourite cafés in Tokyo‘ and ‘My 10 (+1) favourite bars in Tokyo‘.

VIRTÙ is one of the best bars in Tokyo and the world

Here are a few suggestions for things to do in Tokyo if this is your first time in Japan.

Watch a kabuki performance at the Kabuki-za theatre

Kabuki is a traditional Japanese form of theatre known for its stylised drama, elaborate costumes, and distinctive makeup. Originating in the early 17th century, kabuki combines singing, dancing, and acting to tell stories ranging from historical events to romantic tales and moral conflicts. With its bold expressions and rich visual appeal, kabuki remains a vibrant cultural art form, recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.

The Kabuki-za Theatre, located in Tokyo’s Ginza district, is Japan’s premier venue for traditional kabuki performances. Originally opened in 1889 by journalist Fukuchi Gen’ichirō, the theatre has undergone multiple reconstructions due to disasters such as fires, earthquakes, and wartime bombings. The current structure, unveiled in 2013, blends traditional Japanese architectural elements with modern amenities. Kabuki-za continues to host daily performances that attract both local and international audiences. You can choose between a matinee and an evening performance, but it’s also possible to only watch an act.

I opted for an evening 4-hour performance of Chushingura. Along with Sugawara and the Secrets of Calligraphy and Yoshitsune and the Thousand Cherry Trees, this monumental work is considered the pinnacle of Kabuki drama. In the interval, I followed the locals’ example and had the bento box meal, which I had purchased before the start of the performance.

Museums in Tokyo

Tokyo is home to a large number of museums, but they are all closed on Mondays. Here are the ones I visited.

Yayoi Kusama Museum (and Natsume Soseki Memorial Museum)

The Yayoi Kusama Museum is a contemporary art museum in Shinjuku, dedicated to the work of the worldwide-famous Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. The museum admits a fixed number of visitors per day, based on timed tickets, so you need to book well in advance. Once there, you won’t need more than an hour to explore the art exhibits on the five floors of the museum.

My first time in Japan: at the Yayoi Kusama Museum — At the Yayoi Kusama Museum

The Yayoi Kusama Museum doesn’t have a café on the site, unlike the nearby Natsume Soseki Memorial Museum. The latter is a small museum devoted to the work of the esteemed Japanese novelist, who wrote “I am a Cat” and “Kokoro”. Unfortunately, it is rather inaccessible to the non-Japanese speaker. Even if you don’t visit the museum, you can still go to the café (Café Soseki).

Museum of Modern Japanese Literature

The Museum of Modern Japanese Literature is another small museum, also rather inaccessible to the non-Japanese speaker. I went both to the museum and the café (Bundan Coffee & Beer), where the menu is inspired by literary works. For example, I had the ‘milk coffee of Torahiko Terada’, inspired by ‘An Introduction to the Philosophy of Coffee’ by Torahiko Terada (850 yen, about £4.5).

Sumida Hokusai Museum

The Sumida Hokusai Museum celebrates the life and art of renowned ukiyo-e master Katsushika Hokusai (1760–1849). Located near Hokusai’s birthplace, the museum showcases his iconic works, including “The Great Wave off Kanagawa” from the “Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji” series. Designed by architect Kazuyo Sejima, the building features a modern, reflective aluminium facade that contrasts with the traditional surroundings. Inside, visitors can explore high-resolution replicas of Hokusai’s artworks, interactive exhibits, and rotating special exhibitions that delve into various aspects of his and his disciples’ creations.

Temples and shrines in Tokyo

These are the six temples and shrines I visited in Tokyo. Gōtoku-ji was my favourite.

Gōtoku-ji

Colloquially known as ‘the lucky cat temple’, Gōtoku-ji is considered the birthplace of the iconic “maneki-neko,” the beckoning cat figurine believed to bring good luck. The temple grounds are filled with hundreds of white maneki-neko statues left by visitors as offerings, creating a unique and memorable sight that draws both spiritual seekers and curious tourists. To get to Gōtoku-ji, take the ‘lucky cat train’ from Sangenjaya to Miyanosaka. From there, the temple is a 5-minute walk.

Sensō-ji

Sensō-ji is Tokyo’s oldest and most famous Buddhist temple, located in the historic Asakusa district. Its iconic Kaminarimon, or “Thunder Gate,” with a giant red lantern, leads to a lively shopping street called Nakamise, filled with traditional snacks and souvenirs.

Meiji Jingū

Meiji Jingū is a Shinto shrine located in the heart of Tokyo, dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. It is located close to Harajuku, the epicentre of Japanese youth culture and fashion.

Hanazono Shrine

Hanazono Shrine is a historic Shinto shrine located in the bustling Shinjuku district of Tokyo. Its bright red torii gates and traditional architecture offer a striking contrast to the urban landscape, making it a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city.

Tsukiji Hongan-ji Temple

Tsukiji Hongan-ji is a unique Buddhist temple located near Tokyo’s famous Tsukiji Market. The latter is well worth a visit. It is a great place to sample Japanese cuisine, but make sure you get there relatively early, as most stalls close down mid-afternoon.

Zōjō-ji Temple

Zōjō-ji Temple is a historic Buddhist temple located near Tokyo Tower in the Shiba district. The latter offers panoramic views of the city skyline. I visited just before sunset, having purchased my ticket earlier that afternoon (right before going to Zōjō-ji Temple).

Thursday: Fujikawaguchiko (with a stop at Fujiyoshida)

As mentioned earlier, and in keeping with my own itinerary, I recommend staying in Tokyo for five non-consecutive nights at the start of your trip, to allow for an overnight stay at Fujikawaguchiko. This is one of the best places to enjoy views of Mount Fuji (weather permitting). I personally stayed at different hotels before and after my trip to Fujikawaguchiko. Before you depart on Thursday morning, I recommend you use a luggage delivery service (such as Yamato Transport or Sagawa Express). This allows you to have your luggage picked up from your hotel (or even a convenience store) and delivered to your next hotel (or airport). If you follow this 3-week itinerary, you can send your luggage to your hotel in Kanazawa, where you will be staying on Saturday and Sunday, so make sure you take a bag with essentials for 2 days.

Fujikawaguchiko is located in Yamanashi Prefecture, which is home to many of the highest mountains in Japan, and Mount Fuji, the tallest mountain in Japan and a cultural icon of the country. To get to Fujikawaguchiko, you can take a train or a bus (both need to be booked in advance). The journey takes about 2 hours.

Fujiyoshida

I took the train, stopping at Fujiyoshida, a small city at the northern base of Mount Fuji, built upon an old lava flow. After walking on the Instagram-famous Fuji Michi (also known as Honcho Street), I made my way to the Sangoku Daiichisan Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine, another photogenic spot. This is a picturesque Shinto shrine famous for its stunning views of Mount Fuji. It’s best known for the iconic five-story Chureito Pagoda, which, when framed with cherry blossoms and Mount Fuji in the background, creates one of Japan’s most photographed scenes. Visitors climb nearly 400 steps to reach the pagoda, where they are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views and a peaceful, spiritual atmosphere. Although the cherry trees were not in blossom when I visited, the sky was clear and the iconic mountain was clearly visible behind the red five-story pagoda.

Sangoku Daiichisan Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine and Mount Fuji

Fujikawaguchiko

Afterwards, I continued to Fujikawaguchiko, where I stayed overnight (at the lakeside Kawaguchiko Hotel). I arrived in the afternoon and spent a couple of hours walking around Lake Kawaguchiko, the most famous of the Fuji Five Lakes. Later, I stopped at the Instagram-famous Lawson convenience store, where people had their pictures taken in front of the store, against the spectacular backdrop of Mount Fuji. I recommend you have a traditional Japanese dinner at the hotel. The following morning, relax at the onsen of the hotel, admiring Mount Fuji, before heading back to Tokyo.

Friday: one more night in Tokyo

As mentioned, I returned to Tokyo for one more night, following my overnight trip to Fujikawaguchiko. If you think this might be too tiring for you, consider going to Fujikawaguchiko a day earlier (Wednesday instead of Thursday), so you will have two nights in Tokyo afterwards (Thursday and Friday). This might actually work better if you aren’t planning to use a luggage delivery service.

Saturday-Sunday: Kanazawa (and a day trip to Shirakawa-go)

The following day (Saturday), take the bullet train (Shinkansen) to Kanazawa, the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture. The journey lasts about 2 and a half hours. One of my favourite things about travelling by train in Japan is buying an ekiben (a bento box meal) from the station and having it on the train. I especially liked the train-shaped ones.

My first time in Japan: enjoying a Hello Kitty ekiben meal

Kanazawa

Kanazawa is a historic city on Japan’s central Honshu coast, known for its well-preserved Edo-period districts, traditional crafts, and beautiful gardens. Unlike many other cities, it was spared during World War II bombings, allowing its historic architecture and charm to endure. At the heart of the city lies Kenrokuen, considered one of the “three great gardens of Japan”, offering stunning seasonal views. Adjacent Kanazawa Castle was built in the 1580s, after the defeat of the Peasant’s Kingdom, Japan’s only Buddhist fiefdom. Both Kenrokuen and Kanazawa Castle Park are illuminated every Saturday (evening) and the admission is free during the illumination period.

The name “Kanazawa” literally means “marsh of gold”, whereas Kanazawa-haku is gold that is beaten into a paper-like sheet. Gold leaf plays a prominent part in the city’s cultural crafts and is even put into food. I had it on ice cream.

Shirakawa-go

On Sunday, I recommend a day trip to Shirakawa-go, a picturesque village in the mountains of Gifu Prefecture. It takes about an hour and a half by bus. Shirakawa-go is famous for its traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses with steep thatched roofs designed to withstand heavy snowfall. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the village offers a glimpse into rural Japanese life as it was centuries ago. Surrounded by scenic landscapes, Shirakawa-go is especially popular in winter, when the snow-covered houses create a fairy-tale atmosphere. Despite its remote setting, it attracts visitors year-round for its unique architecture, serene beauty, and preserved cultural heritage.

Week 2: Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Kurashiki

Monday-Wednesday: Kyoto

On Monday, I recommend taking the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto. The journey takes about 2 hours.
Kyoto used to be a capital city; in fact, it remained one until the capital was relocated to Tokyo after the Meiji Restoration in the second half of the nineteenth century. Nowadays, it is a major tourist destination, thanks to the large number of temples and shrines found around the city.

I recommend staying in Kyoto for three nights and visiting the following temples:

Tenryū-ji

Tenryū-ji was the first I visited, straight after a short walk in the nearby Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. This is a historic Zen Buddhist temple, renowned for its stunning landscape garden, designed by the famous monk Musō Soseki, which seamlessly blends with the surrounding mountains. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tenryū-ji is not only a spiritual site but also a masterpiece of Japanese garden design and architecture, reflecting centuries of cultural and religious heritage.

Rokuon-ji (Temple of the Golden Pavilion)

Rokuon-ji, also known as Kinkaku-ji or the Temple of the Golden Pavilion, is one of Kyoto’s most iconic landmarks and quite possibly the temple that I liked the most. The top two floors of the pavilion are covered in gold leaf, creating a striking reflection in the pond that surrounds it. Set within a beautifully landscaped garden, Kinkaku-ji exemplifies the harmony between architecture and nature, making it a popular destination and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Despite the fellow visitors, the temple evoked a sense of serene contemplation.

Ginkaku-ji (Temple of the Silver Pavilion)

Unlike its counterpart Kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji (also known as the Temple of the Silver Pavilion) was never covered in silver. Its understated elegance reflects the refined aesthetics of the Higashiyama culture, emphasising simplicity and harmony with nature. The temple is surrounded by a tranquil moss garden and a meticulously raked sand garden, making it a symbol of Japanese wabi-sabi beauty.

Also called Jishō-ji (Temple of Shining Mercy), this temple is located near the Philosopher’s Walk, a path along a cherry-tree-lined canal. Since the cherry trees were not in blossom at the time of my visit, the path was devoid of people.

Fushimi Inari Taisha

Fushimi Inari Taisha is a famous Shinto shrine located in southern Kyoto, best known for its thousands of vibrant vermilion torii gates that form winding paths up Mount Inari. Each gate is donated by individuals or businesses in gratitude for blessings received.

Kiyomizu-dera

Kiyomizu-dera is a historic Buddhist temple located on the foothills of Mount Otowa, offering stunning views of the city below.

It is very close to the historic Higashiyama District, known for its charming streets and traditional buildings, especially the slope of Sannenzaka and the Instagram-famous Yasaka pagoda.

It is also within walking distance from Gion, with its preserved wooden teahouses, narrow cobblestone alleys, and graceful atmosphere. It is the most famous geisha district in Kyoto. Here, visitors may glimpse geisha in elegant kimono on their way to evening engagements, and experience performances of classical dance, music, and the tea ceremony. The geisha culture in Kyoto remains one of Japan’s most iconic and refined traditions, offering a rare window into its artistic heritage.

Jōtoku-ji

Jōtoku-ji is a temple renowned for hosting the Tea Ceremony Ju-An, offering visitors an authentic experience of the Japanese tea ceremony. This ritual, originally developed by Buddhist monks over 500 years ago to assist with meditation, has evolved into a refined cultural practice known as chanoyu.

Participants at Jōtoku-ji can engage in a 70-minute immersive session that includes a traditional purification ritual, a guided tour of the temple, and instruction in the meticulous preparation and enjoyment of matcha tea. The ceremony emphasises mindfulness and tranquillity, reflecting the Zen principles of harmony, respect, purity, and serenity. Our tea master, an elderly lady dressed in a traditional kimono, first meticulously cleaned the utensils, then prepared the tea in a kettle over a charcoal fire, and finally poured the tea into a bowl handed to the first guest on her right. We then took turns repeating the procedure ourselves.

Thursday-Friday: Osaka (via Nara)

Before you depart on Thursday morning, I recommend you use a luggage delivery service to send your luggage to Osaka, where I recommend you stay for two nights. From Kyoto, however, take the train to Nara, and spend the day there (Thursday), before going to Osaka.

Nara

Nara, once the capital of Japan, is nowadays home to fewer than four hundred thousand inhabitants. Human inhabitants, that is, for Nara is also home to over a thousand deer roaming the city’s parks and open spaces.

I recommend visiting these four temples and shrines in Nara:

Kōfuku-ji

Kōfuku-ji is a historic Buddhist temple and one of the powerful Seven Great Temples of the ancient capital. It is renowned for its elegant five-story pagoda, which, unfortunately, was being restored at the time of my visit.

Tōdai-ji

Tōdai-ji is one of Japan’s most iconic and historically significant temples. It is best known for its massive Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall), which houses the Great Buddha (Daibutsu)—one of the largest bronze statues of Buddha Vairocana in the world. Surrounded by deer in Nara Park and steeped in history, the temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a symbol of Japan’s rich spiritual and cultural legacy.

Kasuga Taisha

Kasuga Taisha is a famous Shinto shrine especially renowned for its thousands of bronze and stone lanterns, which are lit during the Lantern Festivals in February and August, creating a magical, glowing scene. Nestled at the edge of the ancient Nara forest and near freely roaming deer, Kasuga Taisha offers a blend of natural beauty, spiritual serenity, and cultural history.

Gangō-ji

Last but not least, Gangō-ji is one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples, recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Osaka

Afterwards, take the train to Osaka. As mentioned, I recommend you stay there for two nights. One day, however, is enough to explore Japan’s third-largest city (Friday). Known for its friendly locals and lively atmosphere, Osaka is famous for its street food, particularly takoyaki and okonomiyaki, earning it the nickname “Japan’s kitchen”. The city’s landmarks include the Osaka Castle, the Hōkoku Shrine (right next to the Osaka Castle), and the Namba Jinja Shrine, not far from the canalside Dōtonbori and the 90-year-old Glico running man.

Saturday: Koyasan

After Osaka, I strongly recommend you visit Kōyasan, as it was one of the highlights of my Japan itinerary. It takes a couple of hours to get there, but it’s certainly worth it. After changing trains in Hashimoto, continue to Gagurakubashi, and then take the cable car to Mount Koya (Kōyasan). This is a sacred mountain temple complex and UNESCO World Heritage site in Wakayama Prefecture.

I recommend you stay overnight in a temple. The one where I stayed is called Fudō-in. It welcomes guests for temple stays (shukubō), providing a chance to experience traditional Buddhist practices (such as morning meditation), vegetarian cuisine, and the tranquil atmosphere of this deeply spiritual mountain.

Whilst there, I recommend you visit Kongobu-ji (Temple of the Diamond Mountain Peak), the head temple of Shingon Buddhism. Okunoin is also well worth a visit. This is the largest cemetery in Japan and one of the most sacred and awe-inspiring sites on Mount Koya (Kōyasan), serving as the mausoleum of Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Surrounded by a vast forest and over 200,000 gravestones and memorials, the path to the mausoleum is lined with centuries-old cedar trees, creating a mystical and reverent atmosphere. It is believed that Kobo Daishi rests in eternal meditation within the mausoleum, and many pilgrims visit Okunoin to pay their respects and seek spiritual connection. The site is especially enchanting at dawn or dusk, when the lantern-lit pathways evoke a deep sense of peace and reflection.

Sunday-Monday: Kurashiki (and a day trip to Himeji)

The following day (Sunday), I recommend you return to Osaka and then take the Shinkansen to Okayama. From there, take the local train to Kurashiki. From Osaka to Kurashiki, it takes about an hour.

Kurashiki

Kurashiki is a charming historic city in Okayama Prefecture, best known for its beautifully preserved Bikan Historical Quarter, where white-walled, tile-roofed warehouses line a scenic canal. This is why Kurashiki is often referred to as the ‘Venice of Japan’. Once a centre for rice distribution during the Edo period, the city blends traditional architecture with a rich cultural atmosphere. Today, Kurashiki is home to museums like the Ohara Museum of Art, Japan’s first museum of Western art, and a variety of local craft shops and cafes. Its tranquil streets and historical ambience offer visitors a glimpse into Japan’s merchant past.

Himeji

On Monday, I recommend a day trip to Himeji. It takes about an hour by train (change in Okoyama). Himeji is a city in Hyōgo Prefecture, most famous for Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the finest surviving examples of traditional Japanese castle architecture. Often called the “White Heron Castle” for its elegant, white appearance, it has remained intact for centuries, surviving wars and natural disasters. The castle is surrounded by beautiful gardens and seasonal cherry blossoms, making it a popular destination in spring.

Week 3: Naoshima, Tokyo, Kamakura, Enoshima

Tuesday-Wednesday: Naoshima

Before you depart on Tuesday morning, I recommend you use a luggage delivery service to send your luggage to Tokyo, where you will arrive on Thursday.

Naoshima is a small island in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea, part of Kagawa Prefecture. It is renowned for its vibrant contemporary art scene and striking architecture. Once a quiet fishing community, it has been transformed into an international art destination, featuring museums designed by Tadao Ando, such as the Chichu Art Museum and Benesse House. The island is dotted with outdoor sculptures, including Yayoi Kusama’s iconic polka-dotted pumpkins, blending art seamlessly with nature. Naoshima offers a unique, tranquil retreat where visitors can experience cutting-edge art in a serene island setting.

My first time in Japan: in Naoshima — In Naoshima

To get to Naoshima, you can take the train to Okoyama (about 15 minutes), then a bus to Uno Port (about an hour), then the ferry to the island (about 20 minutes). I recommend you stay in Naoshima for two days. If you have more days, I recommend visiting some of the nearby islands, such as Teshima.

Thursday-Sunday: back to Tokyo (and a day trip to Kamakura and Enoshima)

On Thursday, I recommend you return to Tokyo (via Uno Port, then Okayama, from where you can take the bullet train). The train journey from Okayama to Tokyo takes about 3 hours. As mentioned, I stayed in Tokyo both at the start and the end of my trip. I recommend staying there for several nights at the end of your trip. Keep a day free to visit Kamakura and Enoshima on a day trip. They’re both located in Kanagawa Prefecture (not to be confused with Kanazawa).

Kamakura

Nowadays, Kamakura is a small, coastal city in Kanagawa Prefecture, about an hour away (by train) from Tokyo. Once upon a time, it used to be the capital. Nowadays, it is famous for its rich cultural heritage and iconic landmarks like the Great Buddha (Daibutsu), Hase-dera Temple, and Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine.

Kōtoku-in (Shōjōsen-ji) — The Great Buddha (Daibutsu) in Kamakura

For more detailed information on these landmarks, check my post ‘25 temples and shrines in Japan‘.

Enoshima

From Kamakura, take the local Enoden train (officially called the Enoshima Electric Railway) to Enoshima. The short journey offers scenic views of Sagami Bay. Enoshima is a small island off the coast of Kanagawa Prefecture, known for its scenic beauty, historic shrines, and ocean views. Connected to the mainland by a bridge, the island is a popular day-trip destination from Tokyo. Visitors can explore the Enoshima Shrine complex, enjoy panoramic views from the Sea Candle lighthouse, and stroll through the Iwaya Caves. Unfortunately, I did not have enough time to explore Enoshima, so I only walked from the train station to the island and then back. From Enoshima, you can take a direct train back to Tokyo.

Where to stay

Here are my recommendations for accommodation in the places included in my itinerary above:

Tokyo

APA Hotel PRIDE Akasaka Kokkaigijidomae: located in Akasaka (not to be confused with Asakusa), this is a Western-style hotel with an onsen.

ONSEN RYOKAN YUEN SHINJUKU: a beautiful hotel that combines the traditional with the modern. Located in Shinjuku, it has a rooftop onsen, as well as a ground-floor restaurant where I had a traditional Japanese breakfast.

BOOK HOTEL 神保町: located in Jimbocho, this is a book-themed hotel, with very spacious rooms.