My 10 (+1) favourite bars in Tokyo

Tokyo has a population of over 14 million. The Greater Tokyo Area, however, includes Tokyo and parts of six neighbouring prefectures (Chiba, Gunma, Ibaraki, Kanagawa, Saitama, and Tochigi), and is, therefore, the most populous metropolitan area in the world, with 41 million residents. Considering that in Japanese culture, alcohol plays a significant role in social gatherings and business interactions, it comes as little surprise that Tokyo is home to many, many, many bars. Popular drinks include sake, beer, and shochu, yet my favourite is the whiskey highball. Today, I’m sharing my impressions of my 10 (+1) favourite bars in Tokyo.

The Old Blind Cat

This is the first bar I visited in Tokyo/Japan. It is very close to the Giant 3D Cat Display Billboard. I visited the Old Blind Cat twice, on my first and my last day in Japan. Both times I/we got seated right away. It is a subterranean bar, but there is a sign on the street to let you know it’s there. Of course, I had a whiskey highball (1000 yen). It wasn’t too busy/loud so I enjoyed it together with the jazz music playing.

Dug Jazz Café & Bar

This is another underground bar in Shinjuku. It’s been there for many years and famous jazz musicians have played here. When I visited, there was no live music, but the owner handed us a book with photographs of renowned jazz musicians playing in various venues in Tokyo and Japan. The photos had been taken by his father.

Box Bar

Box Bar is also in Shinjuku, but unlike the previous ones, it is on the 2nd floor of a 3-storey building. I had the special whiskey highball, which was very special indeed (the secret was in the yuzu) and only cost £4 (approx. 800 yen).

Spincoaster Music Bar

This is a fantastic record bar, and it is also in Shinjuku. I liked it so much that I came twice. It was never too busy or loud, the perfect place to enjoy music. In fact, they have a big selection of records and you can request a song (or more, for an extra charge). They also have nibbles available for free (included in the cover charge to be more precise). I had a mezcal with soda both times (2000 yen incl. cover charge).

Record Bar Analog

Moving on to Shibuya now, and specifically to Record Bar Analog, located not far from the famous crossing. I came to this atmospheric record bar all by myself and without a reservation and I got seated right away. The bar is located on the 3rd floor of a corner building (opposite Mikkeler), so it’s not obvious from the street (alleyway rather). When you get seated, they give you a badge which you can enjoy for a song. They have lots of vinyl records and the staff play the songs requested by the customers. I requested a song by かつしかトリオ (Katsushika Trio), a Japanese jazz trio. I had 2 drinks (a whiskey highball and a plum wine on the rocks) for a total of about £20 (south of 4000 yen). Complimentary nibbles (crisps and chocolate).

The SG Club

A relatively small cocktail bar in Shibuya, voted as one of the best in the world (currently ranked 54th)! It was quite busy when we got there, but got seated without a reservation. The staff were friendly, with no attitude. The cocktails were beautifully presented and reasonably priced. We had two cocktails each (some of the cocktails we had were only available on that day).

Janai Coffee

Ebisu is the southernmost part of Shibuya and home to many cool cocktail bars. Janai Coffee is among those. As you walk in and get to the basement, you come across a coffee stand. You then have to pass a test to be allowed into the bar, a proper speakeasy! The staff were friendly and the cocktails were delicious! I had 2, a Bohemian Interlude (very light and aromatic) and a Tupa Negroni (not so light, but very tasty). I paid about £25 (4000 yen) for the 2 cocktails. The bar is not too small, and they take reservations. Luckily, they let me in without one. The music was r&b, and not too loud. On my way out, they served me a decaf coffee!

A10

A10 is also located in Ebisu. Like Janai Coffee, it is also a subterranean bar, and to enter, you need to find the entrance which is not as easy as it sounds (unless you know that the door is disguised as a set of lockers). The staff were very friendly and chatty. The bar is not too small and can accommodate quite a few people. They take reservations (I was lucky that they let me in without one). A DJ was mixing vinyl records. The cocktails were delicious. I had 2, a hinoki at that time and a kekko na ote mae de. The former was served in a cologne bottle! I paid £27 (5000 yen) which also included a service charge (they had informed me up front).

No Room For Squares

This is another speakeasy record bar that I would highly recommend. Unlike the previous ones, it’s on the fourth floor of a building, so not obvious from the street. Once you come out of the lift, you see a Coca-Cola vending machine (the disguised door); it is the music that guides you in. Inside, the atmosphere is really welcoming. They served alcohol as well as coffee/tea and food/puddings. I had an old-fashioned, which was strong but delicious (1400 yen)! All the while, beautiful jazz music was playing. The bar is located in a different part of Tokyo called Setagaya City (west of Shibuya).

VIRTÙ

VIRTÙ has also been voted as one of the best bars in the world (currently ranked 42nd)! It is located on the 39th floor of a skyscraper east of the Imperial Palace, and is part of the Four Seasons Hotel. The views are impressive and so is the interior design. Friendly staff, no attitude at all! I showed up without a reservation and I got seated right away. The drinks menu had many cocktails that appealed to me, but I ended up having two, a yuzu nagi and a le75. They were both delicious. I paid about £50 (just south of 10000 yen).

As well as VIRTÙ and the SG Club, there are two more bars in Tokyo among the best in the world: Bar Benfiddich (currently ranking 25th) and the Bellwood (89th). The former is located in Shinjuku, on the 9th floor of a building. I showed up there without a reservation soon after it opened, but it was fully booked and they couldn’t accommodate me. The Bellwood is located in Shibuya and I hope I visit it next time I’m in Tokyo.

Gen Yamamoto

I’ve saved this one for last, as opinions are divided. Gen Yamamoto (named after the bartender) is not a typical bar, so be prepared for things to be done (and cost) differently. I found out about it in Lonely Planet’s ‘50 bars to blow your mind‘! The bar has a very minimalist atmosphere (there was no music, just the sound of water dripping) and can only accommodate 8 people at the time (we were 4 when I visited).

To avoid disappointment, we made a booking a week before going there (by phone). There are time slots and you get a cocktail omakase, i.e. a flight of cocktails (between 4 and 7), chosen and created by the bartender Gen Yamamoto. The ones we had were fruity and light (so you don’t get drunk even if you have 7). My friend was rather disappointed, but I really enjoyed the experience! A flight of 4 cocktails costs £45 (about 8500 yen). The bar is located in a different part of Tokyo called Minato City (east of Shibuya).

Further reading

To prepare for my trip to Japan, I used the Lonely Planet Japan Travel Guide.

If you’re in London, check out my post ‘13 places to try Japanese cuisine in London‘.

Alex

(the Traveling Psychiatrist)