A 10-day trip to Puglia (part 1)

Italy is one of my favourite countries in Europe. I love the beautiful architecture, the delicious food and the mild Mediterranean climate. I recently visited Puglia, as well as Matera. The former, also known as Apulia, is the region forming the heel of Italy’s ‘boot’, whereas the latter is a city located in the neighbouring region of Basilicata.

I stayed there for a total of 10 days, but I wished I had stayed longer to visit even more towns and villages. Although I was tempted to rent a car, I eventually decided not to, so I could enjoy the tasty Apulian wines.

Here’s the first part of the itinerary I would recommend, with tips (as always) for where to go, and more importantly where to eat and drink. The second part (my tips on Matera) will be published on 1 August 2022.

Day 1 – Bari

Bari is the capital and the largest city in Puglia. Home to 300,000 inhabitants, it is Italy’s 9th-largest city. Bari’s metropolitan area, however, is much more populous (1.3 million inhabitants) than the city itself.

Named after Pope John Paul II, Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport is the gateway to Puglia. It welcomes both domestic and international (predominantly European) flights throughout the year, but more so in the summer. Regular trains connect the airport to the city centre. I would recommend staying there for 3 days, to explore the city as well as some nearby towns.

Bari’s historic centre is within walking distance from the main train station (Bari Centrale). Barivecchia, also known as San Nicola district or Old Bari, is well worth of visit. Here you’ll find the 1,000-year-old Basilica di San Nicola (Saint Nicholas) and the slightly younger Cattedrale (Cathedral), dedicated to Saint Sabinus of Canosa (San Sabino).

On my first day, I had dinner at Tuccio, a modern restaurant overlooking the Piazza Giuseppe Massari, a stone’s throw from Barivecchia. I would recommend trying the local speciality brasciole al sugo, beef cooked in a rich slowly simmered tomato sauce. As well as a restaurant, Tuccio is also a great place to try some Apulian wines.

Day 2 – Alberobello and Locorotondo

Located in Valle d’Itria, Alberobello and Locorotondo are two small inland towns, worth visiting on a day trip from Bari. The former is just over an hour away on the bus (departing from outside Bari Centrale), whereas Locorotondo is a further 10-minute drive (or train ride) from Alberobello. If this is your first time in Puglia, I wouldn’t recommend spending the night in either town. Instead, it makes sense to take the bus and return to Bari.

Alberobello is famous for the trulli. These whitewashed stone huts with grey conical roofs are not just instagrammable but have also been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. In my opinion, it’s best to visit Alberobello first thing in the morning to avoid the crowds. That was what I did and certainly paid off. After strolling among the trulli and taking a substantial number of photos with minimal photobombing, I had coffee and cake at Cosi com’era, a lovely cafe overlooking the Piazza del Popolo.

Locorotondo is very close to Alberobello, so it’s worth going there next. I spend about an hour wandering the alleyways comprising the pedestrianised hilltop centro storico (historic centre) and visited a couple of churches. Afterwards, I dined (and wined) at U Curdunn on Via Dura (also in the centro storico).

Day 3 – Monopoli and Polignano a Mare

Monopoli and Poligano a Mare are two seaside towns southeast of Bari. There are regular trains that depart from Bari Centrale, stop at Polignano a Mare first, Monopoli next, and then continue to Brindisi and Lecce, which I would recommend visiting at a later date. If you set off from Bari, I would recommend visiting Monopoli first (a 25-minute ride), then taking the train back towards Bari and getting off at Polignano a Mare (a 10-minute journey from Monopoli).

In Monopoli, I spent several hours wandering the centro storico. I absolutely loved the King Caffe Letterario, where I had coffee and cake. Afterwards, I headed to the picturesque harbour, and then to the Cathedral (Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia), also well worth a visit.

Polignano a Mare is the birthplace of the Italian singer-songwriter Domenico Mognuno, well-known for the 1958 hit “Nel blu di pinto di blu” aka “Volare”.

This coastal town is also famous for Cala Porto, a small beach bordered by a Roman bridge. Popular with the Italians, Polignano a Mare is full of cafes, bars and restaurants. I had coffee at Il libro possibile, a lovely cafe in the Piazza Caduti di Via Fani, close to the train station. In the centro storico, Sanbe and Caffe dei Serafini are great places for a coffee or an aperitivo overlooking the Piazza San Benedetto. For dinner, I would recommend one of the many restaurants on Via Roma (also in the centro storico). Last but not least, head to Gusto Caruso (on Via Martiri di Dogali) for gelato.

Although I stayed the night in Polignano a Mare, I would rather suggest you head back to Bari, to avoid carrying your suitcases with you.

Further reading

The second part of my 10-day itinerary (my tips on Matera) will be published on 1 August 2022.

In the meantime, check out my previously published about Rome, Florence and Verona.

To better prepare for my trip in Puglia, I used the Lonely Planet Italy Travel Guide.

Alex

(the Traveling Psychiatrist)