Koufonisia: Top 9 tips by an (almost) local
I have to admit that I had never heard of Koufonisia until a couple of years ago. Perhaps, this is because these three Cycladic islands are really really small. Actually, only one is inhabited: Ano (or Pano) Koufonisi (‘Upper Hollow Island’). Au contraire, Kato Koufonisi (‘Lower Hollow Island’) and Keros are not. Interestingly, when Greeks say ‘Koufonisia’, they usually refer to Ano Koufonisi, rather than all three. Despite their close proximity to Amorgos and Naxos, these tiny islands are considered remote and often described as ‘hidden gems’, ‘off the beaten track’ or ‘undiscovered paradise’, even for Greeks and Italians, who are the main visitors.
Tip 1: Wander around Hora
Hora is the island’s only village and spreads out behind the ferry quay. Wander along the main street towards the small harbor of Loutro, where you can have dinner at one of the seaside taverns.
Tip 2: Go beach hopping
From Hora, start walking anti-clockwise towards the beach of Pori; even though the distance from Hora to Pori is only 3.5 km, beach hopping is more of a day-long activity. First stop is Finikas, where a beach bar may tempt you to stay. Inviting as this may be, continue towards Fanos and Platia Pounta. The latter, also known as Italida, is a nudist beach; however, many prefer not to bare it all and still enjoy its golden sand and azure waters.
Tip 3: Visit the caves
From Italida, walk along the cliff path towards Pori; you will pass by the small caves, one of the most famous sights of the island. Piscina (‘Pool’), or Devil’s Eye, is the one that attracts the biggest crowd – diving from the top of the cave into the naturally formed pool. Continue to Pori and then to the secluded by the caves ‘beach’ Gala. This is slightly tricky to find, as you can only see it once you are actually there.
Tip 4: Yoga by the beach
In Pori, there are ‘yoga by the beach’ sessions in the morning and in the evening (10 euros). Can you imagine a better place to practise your downward-facing dog?
Tip 5: Hop on a boat taxi
At Pori, hop on a boat taxi back to Hora. Alternatively, you can walk along the inland road.
Tip 6: My favorite places to eat
My favorite place to have breakfast is the all-day café-bar Kalamia, in Hora.
At Pori, the cozy tavern/restaurant Kalofeggo is the perfect place for lunch.
In Hora, be prepared to queue for Souvlaki sti Strofi; this is a small corner eatery famous for its delicious souvlaki (grilled meat on a skewer served inside pitta bread). The seating area is limited, but souvlaki is best enjoyed as take-away anyway.
If you’d rather have a sit-down meal, go the seaside tavern Karnagio, where the octopuses hang to dry before they are grilled over charcoal. Alternatively, try the elegant restaurant Gastronautis, or Capetan Nikolas, another waterside tavern.
Tip 7: Listen to classical music
Koufonisia Classical Music Festival takes place in July and August; this summer there are six concerts approximately one week apart (most of them fall on Wednesdays though). The festival features both Greek and international artists.
Tip 8: Visit Kato Koufonisi
Take the boat taxi to Kato Koufonisi and spend the day there. Get off at Nero, one of the few beaches on this uninhabited island. Have lunch at the tavern Venetsanos, before you take the boat back to Ano Koufonisi.
Tip 9: Go bar hopping
In Hora, have a cocktail (or perhaps even a shot of rakomelo) at the bar Scholio. Take a look at the interior of the bar, to admire photographs taken by the owners.
Another great bar is Sorokos. Overlooking the harbor, it is a popular choice among the young visitors, comfortably sat on colorful cushions at the cliff edge.
Mylos (‘Windmill’) also offers a panoramic view of the harbor.
How to get there
Koufonisia have no airport. There are daily ferries from Piraeus (the port of Athens) to Ano Koufonisi; Hellenic Seaways is the fastest at five hours (approx. 60 euros). There are also ferries from other Cycladic islands, such as Santorini, Mykonos, Naxos and Paros, all of which have airports. Check out the ferries timetable here.
If you’re planning to visit several islands, the Eurail Greek Islands Pass is worth considering.
When and how long to visit Koufonisia
For me, the best time to visit Koufonisia (and the Greek islands in general) is the summer; this is when the ferries are at their most frequent, the weather at its warmest and the atmosphere at its best. If you’re planning an island-hopping holiday, July and August are the best months. I would recommend staying there for at least three days.
Accommodation
Ever wished to sleep in an actual windmill? If yes, Windmill Villa is the place where you should stay. To avoid disappointment, book early, as there is only one apartment available to rent. It can sleep up to four people, and it has to be rented for a minimum of three days. Located very close to Hora, it is probably as unique an accommodation as you can get.
Further reading
To better prepare for my trip, I used the Lonely Planet Greek Islands Travel Guide
If you’d like a book to read whilst on holiday, check out my post ‘Crime & Fjords: 9 Scandinavian writers you should read’.
Koufonisia are in close proximity to a large number of charming islands. Read my 2-week itinerary around the Cyclades here.
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Have a great journey!
Alex
(the Traveling Psychiatrist)