Japan trip: Osaka, Nara, Himeji and Koyasan

Earlier this year, I finally visited Japan, a country I’ve been fascinated with for as long as I can remember. My first time in Japan was for 3 weeks, during which I visited 12 of the 48 prefectures. In this post, I’m going to share details on Osaka, as well as nearby Nara, Himeji and Koyasan.

Osaka is known for its friendly locals and lively atmosphere. But Japan’s third-largest city,  is also famous for its street food, particularly takoyaki and okonomiyaki, earning it the nickname “Japan’s kitchen”.

In this post, I recommend places to eat and drink in Osaka, as well as landmarks. I also suggest day trips you can easily do from Osaka, such as Nara and Himeji. I also recommend an overnight stay in Koyasan.

Landmarks in Osaka

The city’s landmarks include the Osaka Castle, the Hōkoku Shrine (right next to the Osaka Castle), and the Namba Jinja Shrine, not far from the canalside Dōtonbori (where you should have takoyaki) and the 90-year-old Glico running man.

Hōkoku Shrine

Hōkoku Shrine, located next to the Osaka Castle, is dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s great unifiers during the late 16th century. Built in 1879, the shrine honours Hideyoshi’s legacy, along with his son and brother, and is known for its serene setting and the stately bronze statue of Hideyoshi at the entrance. Visitors come to pay respects, pray for success in business and academics, and enjoy the tranquil surroundings that contrast with the nearby bustling city. The shrine is especially popular during New Year celebrations and cherry blossom season.

Namba Yasaka Jinja Shrine

Namba Yasaka Jinja Shrine is a unique and striking Shinto shrine located in the heart of Osaka. It’s most famous for its massive lion-head-shaped stage, known as the Ema-den, which stands over 12 meters tall and is believed to ward off evil spirits and bring good luck. The shrine has ancient roots, but much of its current form was rebuilt after World War II. Despite its modern urban surroundings, Namba Yasaka Jinja offers a peaceful atmosphere and is a popular spot for locals seeking blessings for success, especially during the annual festivals held in January.

Where to eat and drink in Osaka

Houzenji Sanpei

I came here to try okonomiyaki, one of Osaka’s specialties. There was a waiting line outside but I eventually got seated right in front of the (open) kitchen. What an experience to see the chef preparing the dish right in front of your eyes! I really enjoyed both the food and the atmosphere. I paid £11, which was really good value for money (about 2000 yen). They accept card payments.

Shabucho

I came here without a reservation. They actually have two locations, one on the ground floor (which is where I first went) and the other one on the 4th floor of the building opposite (this is where I ended up dining). I think the ground floor location is more atmospheric but nonetheless I really enjoyed my meal. I had shabu shabu with pork, another one of Osaka’s specialties. They also do shabu shabu with beef, as well as sukiyaki with either pork or beef. They start cooking the dish in front of you, but then you are expected to cook the meat for yourself, which was a fun thing to do! All the staff were very friendly and paid attention to me. The meal cost me £36 (about 6000 yen) and it was certainly worth it. They take card payments.

Brooklyn Roasting Company

This is a beautiful cafe near Namba station in Osaka (but not the only Brooklyn Roasting Company location in the city). There are lots of seats and many people were working on their laptops, which is great but not too common in Japan. There is wifi and charging points. I had a coffee and a matcha scone for approx. £5 (less than 1000 yen). Card payments accepted.

Glitch

This is the Osaka location of a renowned Japanese cafe. This one is located on the ground floor of a skyscraper not too far from Osaka station. The interior has character but it was very, very cold when I visited. The coffee is not cheap but the one I had (la loma) was delicious and one of the best coffees I’ve ever had (it was one of the least expensive costing about £6). I would therefore strongly recommend this place.

Craftroom

This is a small bar on the second basement of a high rise building very close to Osaka station. If I hadn’t come here on purpose, I would never guess that such a good bar would be hidden here. I came early evening so I didn’t have to wait for a seat. I had the citrus spritz which was delicious. It costs £11 (about 2000 yen). Card payments accepted.

Where to stay in Osaka

Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibasi is located within walking distance from Dōtonbori, this is a modern hotel with a rooftop onsen.

How long to visit Osaka for

I would recommend staying in Osaka for two nights, so you can have a full day. However, you could stay there longer and use it as a base for day trips to Nara and Himeji.

A day-trip from Osaka to Nara

Nara, once the capital of Japan, is nowadays home to fewer than four hundred thousand inhabitants. Human inhabitants, that is, for Nara is also home to over a thousand deer roaming the city’s parks and open spaces. It takes less than an hour to get from Osaka to Nara (by the local train), making it ideal for a day trip.

Landmarks in Nara

I recommend visiting these four temples and shrines in Nara:

Kōfuku-ji

Kōfuku-ji is a historic Buddhist temple and one of the powerful Seven Great Temples of the ancient capital. It is renowned for its elegant five-story pagoda, which, unfortunately, was being restored at the time of my visit.

Tōdai-ji

Tōdai-ji is one of Japan’s most iconic and historically significant temples. It is best known for its massive Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall), which houses the Great Buddha (Daibutsu)—one of the largest bronze statues of Buddha Vairocana in the world. Surrounded by deer in Nara Park and steeped in history, the temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a symbol of Japan’s rich spiritual and cultural legacy.

Kasuga Taisha

Kasuga Taisha is a famous Shinto shrine especially renowned for its thousands of bronze and stone lanterns, which are lit during the Lantern Festivals in February and August, creating a magical, glowing scene. Nestled at the edge of the ancient Nara forest and near freely roaming deer, Kasuga Taisha offers a blend of natural beauty, spiritual serenity, and cultural history.

Gangō-ji

Last but not least, Gangō-ji is one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples, recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Where to drink in Nara

Kasuga Ninai Jyaya

If you’re looking for a place to have a coffee and/or something light to eat near Kasuga Taisha, I recommend Kasuga Ninai Jyaya, a small café very close to the shrine.

Rokumei Coffee

If you’re looking for a place to have a coffee after you’ve visited the temples, I recommend Rokumei Coffee.

Yamato Craft Beer Table

I came here for a beer and I found it hard to choose, as I wanted to try more than one! I ended up buying a couple for later! The beer I had cost £4-5, but I ended up paying £20 (4 beers in total). They accept card payments. I didn’t have to wait to get seated.

Amberjack

This is a small cocktail bar in Nara. I didn’t have to wait when I visited. I had a whiskey highball (£11, about 2000 yen). They accept card payments. Very friendly staff and a delightful atmosphere.

A day-trip from Osaka to Himeji

Himeji is a city in Hyōgo Prefecture, less than half an hour away from Osaka (on the bullet train), making it an ideal day trip. It is most famous for Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the finest surviving examples of traditional Japanese castle architecture. Often called the “White Heron Castle” for its elegant, white appearance, it has remained intact for centuries, surviving wars and natural disasters. The castle is surrounded by beautiful gardens and seasonal cherry blossoms, making it a popular destination in spring.

If you’re looking for a place to have a coffee and/or something light to eat, I recommend Hamamoto Coffee. The almond and cinnamon toasts were simply to die for!

An overnight stay in Koyasan

From Osaka, I strongly recommend you visit Kōyasan, as it was one of the highlights of my Japan itinerary. It takes a couple of hours to get there, but it’s certainly worth it. After changing trains in Hashimoto, continue to Gagurakubashi, and then take the cable car to Mount Koya (Kōyasan). This is a sacred mountain temple complex and a UNESCO World Heritage site in Wakayama Prefecture.

I wouldn’t recommend it as a day trip. I think it is better that you stay overnight in a temple. The one where I stayed is called Fudō-in. It welcomes guests for temple stays (shukubō), providing a chance to experience traditional Buddhist practices (such as morning meditation), vegetarian cuisine, and the tranquil atmosphere of this deeply spiritual mountain.

Whilst there, I recommend you visit Kongobu-ji (Temple of the Diamond Mountain Peak), the head temple of Shingon Buddhism. Okunoin is also well worth a visit. This is the largest cemetery in Japan and one of the most sacred and awe-inspiring sites on Mount Koya (Kōyasan), serving as the mausoleum of Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Surrounded by a vast forest and over 200,000 gravestones and memorials, the path to the mausoleum is lined with centuries-old cedar trees, creating a mystical and reverent atmosphere. It is believed that Kobo Daishi rests in eternal meditation within the mausoleum, and many pilgrims visit Okunoin to pay their respects and seek spiritual connection.

Last, if you’re looking for a place to have a coffee and cake, I recommend Yokaten. As well as hot drinks and cakes, they also serve food.

Further reading

To prepare for my trip, I used the Lonely Planet Japan Travel Guide. I recommend it especially if this is also your first time in Japan.

For specific recommendations on Tokyo, check my posts ‘My 13 (+1) favourite cafés in Tokyo‘ and ‘My 10 (+1) favourite bars in Tokyo‘.

Alex

(the Traveling Psychiatrist)