15 places to eat and drink in Florence
Florence is the capital of Tuscany, as well as one of my favourite Italian cities. I’ve often thought that Firenze, as the Italians call it, embodies the concept of la dolce vita. I’ve been to Florence several times, and every time I enjoyed the city a little bit more. I remember strolling around the beautiful city centre trying to plan my meal times, so that I could dine at as many restaurants as possible, and have as much gelato as possible between or after my meals (quite a task!). Today, I’m sharing my recently updated list of places to eat and drink in Florence, and I’m proud to say that I went to all of them during my visit to the city in September.
(1) Cantinetta dei Verrazzano
Cantinetta dei Verrazzano (on Via dei Tavolini) is a traditional café and one of my favorite in Florence; they serve coffee as well as a large selection of savory and sweet bites making it a perfect pitstop for either breakfast or a light lunch. I had the fig tartelette, which was delicious.
(2) Caffè Gilli
Overlooking the Piazza della Repubblica, one of the main squares of the city, Caffè Gilli is the oldest café in Florence. It is also one of my favourite places to eat and drink in Florence. Indulge yourself with pastry and a coffee whilst taking in the beautiful interior.
(3) Ditta Artigianale
Ditta Artigianale (on Via della Sprone in Oltrarno) is another favourite of mine; unlike the previous ones, Ditta Artigianale is a modern café with a large and spacious interior. I went there after I visited the 18th-century Chiesa di Santa Felicita.
There are a few more locations in other parts of Florence.
(4) Todo Modo
Todo Modo is one of my favourite places in Florence. It’s a bookshop, but there is also a cafe at the back, with 2 rooms, where you can enjoy a drink, read or even work on your laptop. It is very close to the Chiesa di San Salvatore in Ognissanti, home to frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli.
(5) Alimentary F&B
Alimentary F&B is a nice place to have breakfast or a light lunch. It’s part of the 25hours Hotel (well worth a visit in its own right) and overlooks the quiet Piazza di San Paolino. It is right next to the Convento San Paolino, but also close to the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella.
(6) All’Antico Vinaio
For a lighter meal, there’s the highly instagrammable All’Antico Vinaio (on Via dei Neri), where you can enjoy one of their famous paninis (but first make sure you post a photo of it). You’d better go there when you’re not starving, as there is always a queue outside. There is a reason why there’s always a queue though. To avoid waiting too long, I went at around 8 pm on a rainy day and I only waited for about 15 minutes. The sandwich I had (Mela, with speck, scamorza, mushroom cream and rocket salad) was great! It was substantive enough for a meal. By the way, when I said ‘lighter meal’, I meant this in relation to the famous bistecca alla Fiorentina.
Afterwards, head to Gelateria dei Neri (also on Via dei Neri), perfect for a gelato after a sandwich at the All’Antico Vinaio. Unfortunately, it rained so heavily on the day I went to All’Antico Vinaio, that this gelateria is the only place in this list I didn’t visit this time round (and this is the only reason why I’m not counting it among the 15 places to eat and drink in Florence).
(7) Enoteca Obsequium
The Italians are famous for enjoying an aperitivo before dinner. So, why not follow their example? An Aperol Spritz is, of course, perfect in the summer. But, a glass of wine is equally enjoyable. In fact, Florence is no short of enoteche (wine bars; enoteca is the singular and most frequently used form of the word). Here you can also enjoy some light food, along with your wine.
Enoteca Obsequium is on Borgo San Jacopo in Oltrarno. I loved the atmosphere of the place. I had a glass of Vermentino, white Tuscan wine, and shared a cheese and charcuterie board and bruschetta.
(8) Procacci
Procacci (on Via de’ Tornabuoni) is a fiorentine institution. I’ve been there several times, once for a light lunch and another time for an Aperitivo before dinner. Very close to Procacci is the Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano.
(9) Strozzi Bistro
Palazzo Strozzi is a Renaissance palace with permanent display of its history, plus major temporary art exhibitions. In the courtyard there is Strozzi Bistro, a unique place to have a coffee or a light lunch! Unfortunately, it closes rather early in the evening.
(10) Rivoire
During my recent visit to Florence, I went to Rivoire twice, both times for an Aperitivo. I had a negroni, but I also tried the hot chocolate for which Rivoire is famous. There’s a very good reason for this! Both times I sat outside, overlooking Pizza della Signoria and Palazzo Vecchio, but the inside was as beautiful. I also tried some of the pastries (as take-away), as Rivoire is also a Pasticceria.
Florence is actually considered the birthplace of the famous cocktail, made of equal parts gin, vermouth rosso, and Campari, usually served on the rocks, garnished with an orange slice.
(11) Osteria Di Giovanni
Osteria Di Giovanni (on Via del Moro) is a great place to try the bistecca alla Fiorentina, a delicious traditional Florentine dish not suitable for vegetarians or vegans. It is one of my favourite restaurants in Florence. I came back after a few years, and I enjoyed my dinner even more. As always, I had the bistecca alla Florentina (shared with one more person) and a glass of wine. Advanced booking is recommended, as it’s a very popular choice (for a very good reason).
In Oltrarno, there are two of my favourite restaurants in the city: Il Santo Bevitore and the Trattoria La Casalinga.
(12) Trattoria La Casalinga
La Casalinga is a trattoria where I had one of the best meals in Florence. I had spaghetti with pesto as a main, but I also shared two appetisers with my dinner companion (zucchini with Parmesan and the tortino with spinach and Parmesan – both were delicious!). I also had a dessert – the only thing I struggled with was that there were so many to choose from! La Casalinga is almost opposite to the plain-fronted 15th-century Basilica di Santo Spirito.
(13) Il Santo Bevitore
Il Santo Bevitore is an elegant restaurant in Oltrarno. I first went there in 2014 and it’s still as good as I remember it.
At the end of the meal, I had cantuccini (also known as biscotti di Prato). These are traditional almond biscuits and they are typically served as an after-dinner dessert together with a glass of Vin Santo, a Tuscan dessert wine, perfect to dip the cantuccini into.
To learn more about the history of cantucci and biscotti, visit the Museo e Bottega Antonio Mattei.
As usual, I’ve saved the best for last: gelato. These are two of my favourite gelaterias in Florence:
(14) Gelateria La Carraia
La Carraia is my favourite gelateria in Oltrarno and one of my favourites in Florence. I would recommend the cantuccini flavour. I also tried the simfonia di Carraia (cream with chocolate and orange). Located in Oltrarno, right by the Ponte Alla Carraia), it is a perfect choice after a meal on Il Santo Bevitore.
(15) Festival del Gelato (on Via del Corso)
This is another one of my favourite gelaterias in Florence. Very close to Piazza della Republica. Lots of flavours to choose from. I had chocolate and fig gelato.
Further reading
To better prepare for my trip in Tuscany, I used the Lonely Planet Italy Travel Guide.
Over the next few months, I will post more about Florene and Tuscany. In the meantime, here is an older post about Florence:
Summer in Florence: top 7 tips
and my recent posts about Siena, San Gimignano and Lucca:
9 places for sweets, coffee and dinner in Siena
Top 5 tips for 4 days in Siena, Tuscany
A day trip to San Gimignano, Tuscany
Buon viaggio!
Alex
(the Traveling Psychiatrist)