Top 5 tips for 4 days in Siena, Tuscany
Although Siena is only the 12th largest city in Tuscany, with a population of just over 50,000, it is one of the most famous and visited. Its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, containing buildings dating as far back as the 13th and 14th centuries. Having already shared my tips about places to eat, today I am sharing my top 5 tips for 3-4 days in Siena.
1. Museums & Churches
Ticketed
One of the main sights in Siena is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption, simply known as Duomo. The entry ticket costs 8 euros and it also gives you access to the Libreria Piccolomini. This is a small library within the Cathedral known for its Pinturicchio frescoes, illustrating ten episodes from the life of Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini (Pope Pius II).
However, I would recommend buying the Porta del Cielo pass, which costs 21 euros and is valid for three consecutive days from the date of purchase. This pass also allows access to the Gate of Heaven (Porta del Cielo), which offers panoramic views of the interior of the Duomo, as well as of the city.
Also included is access to the Battistero di San Giovanni Battista (at the back of the Duomo), the Crypt, the Museo dell’Opera and the Panorama dal Facciatone. The Chiesa di San Niccolò in Sasso, on Via del Poggio, is part of the museum itinerary of the Museo dell’Opera.
Last, it allows access to the Oratory of St. Bernardino, which is located right next to the Basilica of San Francesco, in a different part of the city centre.
Free
Next to the Oratory of St. Bernardino, there’s the Basilica of San Francesco, which dates back to the 13th century. Not far from there, on via dei Rossi, there’s the lesser-known Chiesa di Sant’Elisabetta della Visitazione; it is the oratory of the Casa Madre delle Sorelle dei Poveri di Santa Caterina da Siena, where the body of the founder, Savina Petrilli, is venerated.
Also worth a visit are the nearby Insigne Collegiata di Santa Maria in Provenzano in Piazza Provenzano and the Chiesa di San Cristoforo in Piazza Tolomei. Close to the latter is the impressive Piazza Salimbeni, worth a small detour. The Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Nevi is less than a minute walk from there.
The Chiesa di San Giorgio on Via di Pantaneto is a bit further away but worth a detour.
Another lesser known church is the Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata. Opposite the Duomo, this church is incorporated within the complex of the ancient Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala.
2. Palazzo Chigi-Saracini
Built by the Marescotti family in the 12th century, the Palazzo Chigi-Saracini is a Gothic palace on the Via di Città, Nowadays, it is the seat of the Accademia Musicale Chigiana. Every summer, an international festival takes place there, as well as in other venues (such as the Villa di Geggiano Castelnuovo Berardenga, the Chiesa di San Biagio in the nearby village of Gerfalco and the Chiesa di S. Agostino). On the 2nd of September, I went to the Palazzo Chigi-Saracini for a lunchtime concert and also had a coffee in the courtyard. Even if you don’t visit the interior of the Palazzo, ChigianArtCafe, the café of the Palazzo is well worth a visit. It is a tranquil oasis, ideal if you fancy a break from the crowded streets of Siena.
3. Restaurants
Siena is home to many restaurants, but most are closed on Sundays. Here are my favourites:
Osteria da Vivo
This is a great place for dinner, located on Via Franciosa. It is very close to the Battistero di San Giovanni Battista, but also close to the Duomo. I dined here as soon as I arrived in Siena and had a selection of cold cuts, followed by pappardelle with wild boar braised with Chianti, and accompanied with a glass of Chianti. After dinner, I passed in front of the Duomo and sat there for a few moments.
Nonna Gina
This is another great place for dinner, a stone’s throw from Palazzo Ravizza, the hotel where I stayed. I had a selection of antipasti, followed by pici alla Dado, a local type of thick, and-rolled pasta (like fat spaghetti) with ragu, and accompanied with Chianti wine. For dessert, I had baci di Lella, which was a wonderful semifreddo.
Osteria Quattro Venti
I absolutely loved this osteria, on Via San Pietro, very close to the Chiesa di San Pietro alle Scale. When I dined there, it was such a pleasant evening, that I sat outside. I had a salad, pici with ragu (once again) and a glass of Chianti wine.
La Taverna di San Giuseppe
I absolutely loved this restaurant too. Located on Via Giovanni Duprè, it is very close to the Chiesa di San Giuseppe. They do 2 sittings, at 7 pm and at 9 pm, and they’re so popular that advanced reservations are highly recommended. I had prosciutto and figs for a starter, wild boar (cinghiale) for a main, and a selection of local sweets (panforte and ricciarelli) for dessert. Needless to say that I also had a glass of Chianti.
4. Panforte and ricciarelli
Siena is regarded as the panforte capital of Italy. This is a round and chewy cake, which dates to the 13th century and was originally made of flour, honey, spices, dried figs, jam and pine nuts and flavoured with pepper. Nowadays, there are many variations, for example panforte with marzipan or with chocolate. I tried the former at Dolce e Cantine, a small pasticceria (a shop, not a café) on Via dei Pellegrini, almost opposite the Battistero di San Giovanni Battista.
I also tried panforte at Pasticceria Nannini Conca d’Oro. Established by Guido Nannini in 1910, this pasticceria-café has almost become synonymous with Siena. Located on Via Banchi di Sopra, it is a stone’s throw from Piazza del Campo, the site for the Palio, the renowned horse race held twice each year, on 2 July and 16 August, in Siena.
Fun fact: Literally, panforte means ‘strong bread’, and refers to the spicy flavour. Originally, the Sienese called it panpepato (‘peppered bread’), due to the strong pepper used. The name ‘panpepato’ is still being used to refer to a type of panforte.
Siena is also famous for the ricciarelli, biscuits that date back to the 14th century. Together with the panforte, the ricciarelli are considered one of the signature sweets of Siena. They are made of almonds, sugar, honey and egg whites and have a marzipan-like taste and texture. I tried them at Panificio Il Magnifico, another small pasticceria (a shop, not a café), also on Via dei Pellegrini.
5. A day trip to San Gimignano
San Gimignano is a small walled medieval hill town in the province of Siena. It is located 45 km northwest of Siena and 60 km south of Florence. Famous for its medieval architecture and home to 8,000 residents, San Gimignano (also known as the Town of Fine Towers), is a popular destination for many tourists, as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I would recommend getting the San Gimignano pass, which costs 13 euros, is valid for 2 consecutive days and allows you access to several churches, monuments and museums in San Gimignano. Among those are the Duomo, the Palazzo Comunale (with its 54-metre tall Torre Grossa), the Museo di Arte Sacra, the Museo Archeologico and the Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Ponte. Built in 1310, Torre Grossa is the tallest tower in San Gimignano. If you climb the 160 steps to the top, you will be rewarded with panoramic views of the Tuscan town and its surrounding landscape.
I would also recommend that you have gelato at Gelateria Dondoli. There might be a queue outside but the wait won’t be long and is definitely worth it. There are lots of flavours to choose from, but make sure you try the saffron-based ‘crema di Santa Fina’ for which Dondoli is famous. In case you’re wondering who this flavour was named after, Santa Fina was born in San Gimignano, where she is venerated. After contracting a paralytic illness, she died at the age of 15 and is buried at the Duomo di San Gimignano.
How to get to Siena
Siena is located south of Florence, and it takes about an hour’s drive from the latter. If you’d rather not drive, you can take the train or the bus. The train journey takes about an hour and a half and costs approximately 10 euros. Unlike the train station in Florence, the one in Siena is not in the city centre. The bus station, however, is located in the city centre.
How to get to San Gimignano
Sometimes, there is a direct bus from Siena to San Gimignano (just over an hour). Otherwise, you can take either the bus or the train (from either Siena or Florence) to Poggibonsi, then take a bus to San Gimignano. The train from Siena to Poggibonsi takes about 20 minutes, whereas the train from Florence to Poggibonsi takes just over an hour. Once in Poggibonsi, you need to take the bus 130 to San Gimignano (15-20 minutes).
Where to stay in Siena
I stayed at Palazzo Ravizza, a full-of-character hotel, centrally located and within walking distance from all the places mentioned in this post. It is also very close to the Chiesa di San Niccolò al Carmine.
When and how long to go for
The Italians have the saying “dolce far niente”, which literally means “the sweetness [of] doing nothing”. It’s a philosophy and lifestyle that involves relaxing and enjoying the moment. My own interpretation was to have an aperitivo (specifically an Aperol spritz) every evening before dinner. I would do so in the garden of the Palazzo Ravizza overlooking the Tuscan hills and countryside. If you would like to do the same, I would recommend staying in Siena for at least 3 full days (4 nights), which would allow you enough time to visit the sights and restaurants mentioned above (including a day trip to San Gimignano).
Further reading
To better prepare for my trip in Tuscany, I used the Lonely Planet Italy Travel Guide.
Over the next few months, I will post more about Siena and Florence. In the meantime, here is an older post about Florence:
Summer in Florence: top 7 tips
and my recent posts about San Gimignano and Lucca:
A day trip to San Gimignano, Tuscany
Buon viaggio!
Alex
(the Traveling Psychiatrist)