Top 7 tips for a winter visit to Reykjavik

It all started a few months ago, when I attended an Icelandair-sponsored event in London. Iceland had already been on my bucket list for quite some time, but remained the only Nordic country (excluding the autonomous Faroe Islands, Greenland and Åland Islands) I was yet to set foot to. In fact, I wanted (and still do) to visit the Land of Fire and Ice in the summer and go on a road trip around the country. Tempted, however, by an Icelandair promotional deal, I booked a 3-night round-trip to Reykjavik for mid-January, an ideal time to see the Northern Lights.

The Northern Lights were spectacular – and my photos do not certainly do justice to them. But, there are plenty more things to do and see in the Icelandic capital in the winter. Here are my top 7 tips:

Tip 1: Visit Hallgrímskirkja

Named after the Icelandic poet and cleric Hallgrímur Pétursson, Hallgrímskirkja is the largest church in Iceland, as well as Reykjavik’s most noticed landmark. It took 41 years to build the church: construction started in 1945 and ended in 1986. It is free to enter, but there is a ticket (about £7) for the tower (it is worth going there to admire a panoramic view of the city).

Afterwards, have a hot dog (traditionally served with crispy fried onion) from the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur stand outside the church.

Or, if you fancy something sweet, walk down Frakkastígur to Brauð&co. Located in a colourful house, this artisanal bakery is renowned for the best cinnamon buns in Reykjavik. Unfortunately, there is no seating area.

Last, you can have the best coffee in town (and a light meal and/or baked goods) at Reykjavik Roasters, a cosy café in Kárastígur (a 2-min walk from Hallgrímskirkja).

Tip 2: Try the local cuisine

Speaking of food, I would highly recommend Sægreifinn, an unassuming seafood restaurant by the old harbour. The lobster soup was delicious, and so was the fish. They’re open both for lunch and dinner, but only take reservations for large groups (six or more).

For dinner, I would recommend the upscale Grillmarkaðurinn (Grill Market). I had the grilled whale steak and the smoked arctic char for starters and the grilled reindeer for a main.

Not far from Grillmarkaðurinn, there’s a sister restaurant called Fiskmarkaðurinn (Fish Market). Maybe next time I’m in Reykjavik…

Tip 3: Visit a lagoon

Icelanders love swimming, so it’s not as surprising that there are so many pools in Reykjavik. More unique, however, are the geothermal baths (or lagoons).

The Blue Lagoon is the most famous and the one I visited. It is actually located near Keflavik, about 45-50 minutes from Reykjavik. I booked my visit (transport and admission) with Reykjavik Excursions.

Also renowned is the much-closer Sky Lagoon, in Kopavogur, about 10 minutes from central Reykjavik.

Tip 4: Chase the Northern Lights

Needless to say, that winter is the best time to catch the Northern Lights, but of course, there is no guarantee that they will make an appearance. Many tour operators (I booked with Reykjavik Excursions) organise short late evening trips outside the city (away from the light pollution) and offer free re-booking in case of non-appearance. I was very lucky, as not only they were clearly visible during my visit, but they also were dancing all across the sky.

To capture the Northern Lights, you need to set your camera as follows: in manual mode, ISO to 1600 (or higher), lens to infinity, aperture as wide (the lowest number) as possible (for me this was 3.5), and shutter speed to 10-15 seconds (it needs to be fast). Last, make sure you rest your camera on a tripod.

Tip 5: Go on the Golden Circle tour

If you have more days than I had (I only stayed in Reykjavik for 3 nights), I would recommend going on the so-called Golden Circle tour, a full-day excursion to the Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir geothermal area and the Gullfoss waterfall.

Tip 6: Immerse yourself in the Icelandic Arts and Culture

Iceland Airwaves is a music festival that takes place in multiple venues (from concert halls to churches) in Reykjavik each November. The line-up includes both Icelandic and international artists, such as Röyksopp, Metronomy and Daughters of Reykjavik who performed in 2022. It is next due from 2 to 4 November 2023.

If you visit Reykjavik at a different time of the year, check out Harpa. Located in the old harbour, this modern concert hall is home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, Icelandic Opera and Reykjavik Big Band, which hold regular concerts throughout the year. Take a moment to admire the building, designed by the Danish firm Henning Larsen Architects in cooperation with Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson.

If you’re more of a cinephile, you could visit Reykjavik in late September or early October to attend the Reykjavik International Film Festival, next due from 28 September to 8 October 2023. This might not be the best time to catch the Northern Lights though.

And if you’re a bibliophile, like most Icelanders and me, why not visit one of the many bookshops in Reykjavik? I visited Eymundsson on Skólavörðustígur (a few minutes from Hallgrímskirkja), which also has a cafe on site.

Tip 7: There’s more to Iceland than Reykjavik

Not far from Sægreifinn, there’s the new Lava Show house, which only opened in Reykjavik a few months ago. Here you can experience a recreation of a volcanic eruption (in a safe and controlled environment) and learn more about the Icelandic volcanoes, such as the notorious Eyjafjallajökull, which caused enormous disruption to air travel across Europe in 2010. Admission costs just over £30 and the visit’s duration is about 50 minutes.

Also located in the old harbour, there’s FlyOver Iceland, where you can take a virtual flight over the country. It was recommended to me by a local, but I did not get a chance to visit.

How to get there

I flew to Reykjavik with Icelandair, the country’s flag carrier airline. The flight from London was almost 3 hours. Icelandair also flies to most Western European countries and many North American cities. I landed at Keflavik Airport, Iceland’s largest airport and the main hub for international transportation. It is located 45-50 minutes from Reykjavik. Flybus operates in connection with all arriving flights at Keflavik Airport with direct transportation to Reykjavik.

Keflavik Airport is not to be confused with Reykjavik Airport, the main domestic airport serving the capital, located very close to the city centre.

When and how long to visit Reykjavik for

Reykjavik is an all-year-round destination, but the Northern Lights are only visible from September to April. That said, there is a greater chance of seeing the Aurora Borealis between October and March.

I stayed in Reykjavik for 3 nights. In hindsight, I would’ve probably stayed one more night to also go to the Golden Circle tour (I had wrongly assumed there wouldn’t be enough daylight in January). Of course, if you visit Reykjavik when the Reykjavik International Film Festival or Iceland Airwaves take place, I would recommend you stay even longer.

Where to stay

I stayed at Fosshotel Reykjavik, which is conveniently located in the city centre, within walking distance from Hallgrímskirkja. It is the country’s largest hotel. Ground-floor Bjórgarðurinn (Beer Garden) might not be a beer garden but features nonetheless the largest collection of Icelandic and international beers (if you ask the bartender for a beer tasting, they will give you 3 beers to try).

Further reading

Check out my previous post on Icelandic Arts and Culture:

‘A musical journey to Iceland’

’10 Icelandic films and TV series to watch’

’10 Finnish & Icelandic TV series to watch’

‘X-mas Book Flood: Jólabókaflóðið, Yule & Murder‘

Alex

(the Traveling Psychiatrist)