3 days on the island of Kea (Tzia)
2022 is around the corner. As difficult as this year has been, 2021 has had some great moments, for which I am so grateful. One of those moments was in early July, when I returned to my home country, Greece, and started my summer holidays. Kea, also called Tzia, was the first island I visited, together with one of my closest friends, Elsa.
Of all the Cyclades, Kea is the closest to Attica and Athens. Thanks to its close proximity to the Greek capital, Kea is an ideal weekend resort for the Athenians; for the rest of us, this beautiful island is a great summer destination. Commonly referred to as ‘the gate of the Cyclades’, Kea can easily be combined with island-hopping to other nearby islands, such as the neighbouring Kythnos.
Arrival
It was a hot July day when Elsa and I met in Athens. After a brief walk in the historical centre of the Greek capital, we made our way to the port town of Lavrio. This is where the ferries to Kea depart from (usually in the afternoon). An hour later, we set foot on the island of Kea, where we stayed for 3 (and a half) days, before we continued our holidays to Kythnos. We stayed at Porto Kea Suites, a luxury 5-star hotel conveniently located in Korissia, the main port of the island.
For dinner, we decided to drive to Ioulida, the inland capital of the island (5.5 km from Korissia). Unlike most Cycladic towns, dominated by white-washed houses, Ioulida is full of multicoloured ones. First going through an archway, we continued uphill on the main street. We had dinner at the tavern Kalophagadon, where we tried the local delicacies: loza (the so-called ‘prosciutto of Kea’) and paspalas (the typical dish of Kea, made with pork meat cooked together with tomatoes and eggs).
First (full) day in Kea
After a pool-side breakfast at the hotel, we kicked off our first full day on the island with a drive towards Spathi. This northeastern beach is considered the east coast’s finest. From Korissia, where we stayed, we drove north on the beach road. Past the northwestern bays of Gialiskari, Vourkari and Otzias, we continued until the junction that would’ve taken us all the way to Spathi. However, since the road to the beach was not an asphalt road, we decided to make a U-turn and drive back to Otzias. This sandy, partly-organised beach is the longest on the island.
In the early evening, we visited Ioulida, once again. From the top of the main street, we followed the footpath to the enigmatic Kea Lion, the trademark of the island. Carved on a rock, the monument dates back to the 6th century BC. From there, the path continues all the way to Otzias. However, once again, we made a U-turn and returned to the centre of Ioulida, in time for the sunset.
Panorama is a little patisserie with a terrace that offers a panoramic view of Ioulida. It is also a great spot to watch the sunset from. Once the sun disappeared into the Aegean, we continued to Kylix, a small restaurant perfect for a glass of wine and alfresco dining under a sky full of stars. After dinner, we made yet another U-turn and walked to the lively Leon Bar for late-night cocktails.
Second day
The next day, we drove south to the beach of Koundouros, the most cosmopolitan beach of the island, also known as ‘playground for moneyed Athenians’. It is an organised sandy beach on the southwestern coast of the island. After spending most of the day there, we drove to the nearby beach of Pisses, where we watched the sunset before having dinner at a roadside tavern, To Exochiko Tis Margaritas.
Last day in Kea
On our third day, we visited the beach of Gialiskari, probably my favourite of all the beaches I’ve visited in Kea. I can’t think of anything better than sipping cocktails at the beach bar Eora, against a backdrop of azure waters and two little white-washed chapels, one on each side of the small bay.
In the evening, we drove to the nearby harbour of Vourkari. The waterfront is lined with stylish restaurants and bars. We dined at the seaside restaurant 9 Kores, then had cocktails at Acqua and ice cream at Kayak – the perfect ending to the first part of an unforgettable holiday.
Departure
Whilst waiting for the early-morning ferry to Kythnos, we had breakfast at Oikos, an inviting cafe at the port of Korissia.
How to get to Kea
Kea has no airport. In the summer, there are daily direct ferries from the port-town of Lavrio, in the southeast coast of Attica (the journey takes about an hour). Check out the ferries timetable here.
Renting a car is recommended; in peak season, do this well in advance.
When and how long to visit Kea
For me, the best time to visit Kea (and the Greek islands in general) is the summer; this is when the ferries are at their most frequent, the weather at its warmest and the atmosphere at its best. If you’re planning an island-hopping holiday, July and August are the best months. I would recommend staying there for at least three days.
Accommodation
We stayed at Porto Kea Suites, a luxury 5-star hotel conveniently located in Korissia.
Further reading
To better prepare for my trip, I used the Lonely Planet Greek Islands Travel Guide.
Check out more tips for Kea here.
To read more about the Cyclades, check out my post ‘Island-hopping in the Cyclades‘.
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Have a great journey!
Alex
(the Traveling Psychiatrist)