Traveling around Skyros with a local

Hello! I am back from Skyros, my favorite Greek island. During my 10-day stay, I reconnected with my family, swam in the crystalline waters of the Aegean, relaxed by the sea reading novels and poetry, savored Skyrian delicacies (see below), and sipped cocktails. This was the fourth time I visited Skyros as an adult, and it certainly won’t be the last. In fact, I’m already making plans to visit again next summer. There are quite a few reasons why Skyros is the island I have visited the most; I have highlighted those in my post ‘Skyros: the island of wellness and wellbeing’, published in January 2019. Today, I would like to re-visit these reasons. At the same time, I’m going to discuss some interesting facts about the island that I’ve learned from Maria, a local guide and art historian. 

Geography of Skyros

Skyros is located in the center of the Aegean, east of Evia (or Euboea, the second largest Greek island) and north of the Cyclades. Administratively, it belongs to the Prefecture of Evia, while geographically, it belongs to the Northern Sporades (together with Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos). Until the middle of the 19th century, a narrow sea channel separated the northern (inhabited) part of the island, Meroi, from the southern (uninhabited) Anemoessa. Despite their close proximity, these two parts of Skyros are very different to each other with regards to their microclimate, flora and fauna. For example, in Meroi, there is a pine forest as well as four different species of orchid, while in Anemoessa, there are maple trees. These two parts of the island, Maria speculated, were united as a result of the opening of the Suez Canal in Egypt.

The east coast of Skyros

Every time I visit Skyros, I start my holiday with a swim in the clear blue waters of the Aegean. Molos beach, located on the east coast of the island, is one of my favorites. This is a large organized beach, extending south to the coastal settlement of Magazia and north to Pouria and Gyrismata. Most of the accommodation on the island, from rooms for rent to luxury hotels, is located here. Heading to Pouria, at the northern edge of Molos, you will come across the chapels of Agios Nikolaos and Zoodohos Pigi, whereas the chapel of Agios Ermolaos is on an islet off the coast.

Eating and drinking on the east coast of Skyros

Here you will also find several beach bars and taverns just a few meters from the sea. The beach bars Juicy and Kavoures stand out, as well as the taverns Stefanos and Mylos of Balabanis. The first is famous for the lobster spaghetti (astakomakaronada), the specialty of the island, while the second offers a wonderful view of Hora (also spelled Chora), the capital and main settlement of Skyros.

Apart from the lobster spaghetti, Skyrian cuisine is also famous for its lemony goat (katsikaki lemonato). Typical appetizers/side dishes are the teroptes (cheese pies made with trahana) and the ladopita (bread fried in oil), served with soft and easy-to-spread locally produced xynotyri (sour cheese). Apart from xynotyri, other locally produced cheeses are mizithra and graviera. Other traditional products of Skyros are fava (yellow split peas), honey, fruits (i.e. figs), spoon sweets, and locally produced wine.

After dinner, it’s time for a cocktail or two. Korfari is a beautiful bar located in Magazia (next to Stefanos), where I watched the full moon climbing up the sky. Anemomylos (Windmill) is another great bar; located in Pouria, at the northern edge of Molos (not too far from the tavern Mylos of Balabanis), it is a perfect place to watch the sunset, in which case it might be better to get there before dinner. It is right next to the chapels of Agios Nikolaos and Zoodohos Pigi.

Hora: the capital and main settlement of Skyros

Built amphitheatrically on the slopes of a 179-meter-high hill, Hora offers panoramic views of the Aegean Sea. From the Central Square, it is worth ascending in the direction of the Castle (Kastro), at the top of the hill. Whilst strolling around the snarl of cobblestone alleys that make up the village, you will breathe in the soft yet distinctive aroma of jasmine. You will also come across several small churches and chapels, painted white, sometimes with blue domes. Many of these are dedicated to Virgin Mary (Panagia): Panagia Melikarou, Panagia Eleimonitria, Kyra Psomou. At the same time, you will undoubtedly admire the traditional Cubist architecture of the island, the rectangular houses that touch each other. Blushing bougainvilleas climb the walls of the whitewashed houses with their characteristic flat roofs. 

The path Megali Strata will lead you to the Castle, home to the thousand-year-old Monastery of Agios Georgios (Saint George), the Patron Saint of the island. Although uphill, the route is easy. As for the view, it is simply magnificent. The Castle was built in the Byzantine times on the site of an ancient citadel. It was originally built to defend against pirate attacks. Both the Castle and the Monastery are open to the public in the morning from 10.30 to 12.30, and in the evening from 6.30 to 8.30.

You will then descend to the Square of Eternal Poetry, where you can admire the Statue of an Ideal Poet, erected in memory of Rupert Brooke, who is buried in an olive grove in Anemoessa. The English poet died during the First World War, in 1915, in a French floating hospital, which had anchored in the bay of Tris Boukes.

The museums of Skyros

Right next to the Square of Eternal Poetry, there’s the Archaeological Museum with finds from the island’s excavation sites dating from the Early Helladic (2.800-1.900 BC) to the period of Roman occupation (1st century AD). The museum is open every day except Tuesday. Next door to the Archaeological Museum, there’s the historical and folk art Faltaits Museum, one of the first of its kind in Greece. Housed in a mansion, it exhibits traditional and contemporary folk art items, such as embroideries, costumes, ceramics, and furniture, for which Skyros is famous. Other exhibits include historical documents and publications, as well as paintings. The museum is open daily.  

Eating and drinking in Hora

Returning to the Central Square of Hora, you will come across many cafes, taverns, bars and patisseries. Calypso and Neoptolemos stand out for coffee; Rodon, Kallitehnikon and Oino are great places for either coffee or cocktails; O Pappous Mou Ki Ego and Manna for food; Hiotis and Faltaina for ice cream or other desserts. It is worth trying Faltaina’s amygdaloto, a marzipan-based bite-size dessert, or even the ice-cream of the same flavor.

Next to the Central Square, there are the rooftop bars Akamatra and Agora, where, as in Rodon, you can enjoy a cocktail (or two) overlooking the Castle and the monastery. Also standing out are the gourmet Italian restaurant Villaggio and the cafe-bars Heron, Escobar and Afanera.

The north part of Skyros

From Hora, it is worth continuing to the northeastern part of the island, Trahi, home to the island’s airport. Trahi is also home to the archeological site of Palamari, a settlement that dates back to the beginning and middle of the Bronze Age. Finds from this archaeological site can be found in the Archaeological Museum.

The west coast of Skyros

You can then head to the west coast of the island, to swim in the bay of Kyra-Panagia, where the beach bar Cook Nara is located. Afterwards, follow the mountainous road heading south. This road first passes through Atitsa, where the Skyros Center is located. Now in its 42nd year, Europe’s first course-based holiday center, offers yoga, health and wellbeing retreats, but also art and writing courses. The mountainous road continues through the pine forest and at the same time offers a magnificent view, especially in the evening before sunset. You will pass by the chapels of Agios Fokas and Agios Panteleimonas, before reaching Pefkos beach.

In Pefkos, there is a nice beach bar and Stamatia’s tavern, where I’ve had a delicious seafood kritharoto (orzo with squid, cuttlefish and shrimp) and pastitsio (a baked pasta dish with minced meat and béchamel sauce).

From Pefkos, you can take the boat to the southern part of the island and to the island of Sarakiniko, where you can swim in the crystal clear waters of the Aegean or simply admire the caves.

Linaria: the port of Skyros

South of Pefkos, also on the west coast of Skyros, there is Aherounes beach and Linaria, the port of the island. Here arrives the ferry boat Achilles that connects Skyros with Kimi, a coastal town located on the east coast of Evia, as well as with the islands of Skopelos and Alonissos. The name of the ferry boat reminds us of the ancient myth, according to which, Thetis hid her son Achilles in Skyros, to prevent his participation in the Trojan War. Disguised as a girl, Achilles was hidden among the daughters of King Lycomedes. His disguise, however, did not deceive Odysseus, and this is how Achilles ended up fighting in Troy on the side of the Greeks.

In Linaria, there are also several cozy taverns, such as Marigo, as well as Cavos, a bar where you can enjoy the sunset to the sounds of lounge music, which alternates with Richard Strauss’s Also Sprach Zarathustra (Thus Spoke Zarathustra) every time Achilles arrives in Skyros. The church of Agios Nikolaos (Saint Nicholas), Patron Saint of the Seas, stands tall across the bay.

The south part of Skyros

South of Linaria, there is Kalamitsa beach. Not far from there, there is the tavern Mouries, where I had delicious moussaka in the shade of huge mulberries. From there, you can return to Hora through the coastal settlement of Aspi. On your way, your will come across farms with the characteristic small horses. Standing just 3.2 to 3.6 feet (90 to 100 cm) tall, they are commonly but mistakenly referred to as ponies. The Skyrian Horse is a breed of miniature horse unique to Skyros. One of the rarest horse breeds in the world, the Skyrian Horse is a protected species; only a couple of hundred horses now remain. Once also found in mainland Greece, nowadays, they can only be found in Skyros (either in the wild or in farms).

Practical information 

How to get to Skyros

You can fly to Skyros directly from Athens or Thessaloniki (regular flights, 30 minutes), or arrive via ferry from Evia (regular daily services, 90 minutes), or from the other Sporades islands. Once on the island, renting a car is highly recommended.

When and how long to visit Skyros

For me, the best time to visit Skyros (and the Greek islands in general) is the summer; this is when the ferries are at their most frequent, the weather at its warmest and the atmosphere at its best. If you’re planning an island-hopping holiday, July and August are the best months. Skyros can easily be combined with the other Sporades islands: Skiathos, Skopelos, and Alonissos. I would recommend staying in Skyros for at least five days.

Alternatively, you can visit Skyros in time for the Carnival, which takes place in February/early March.

Accommodation

Most hotels and rooms to rent are located in Molos or Gyrismata. During my last two visits, I stayed at Nemire Luxury Residences in Molos, right by the sea. They include a villa, individual rooms to rent, and studios; they’re all self-catered and full with character.

Further reading

To better prepare for your trip, I would recommend the Lonely Planet Greek Islands Travel Guide.

For more up-to-date information, you can check out the site visit-skyros.gr.

My journey to Skyros concludes with the poem ‘The Hill’ by Rupert Brooke.

Breathless, we flung us on the windy hill,

    Laughed in the sun, and kissed the lovely grass.

    You said, ‘Through glory and ecstasy we pass;

Wind, sun, and earth remain, the birds sing still,

When we are old, are old….’ ‘And when we die

    All’s over that is ours; and life burns on

Through other lovers, other lips,’ said I,

    ‘Heart of my heart, our heaven is now, is won!’

‘We are Earth’s best, that learnt her lesson here.

    Life is our cry. We have kept the faith!’ we said;

    ‘We shall go down with unreluctant tread

Rose-crowned into the darkness!’…Proud we were,

And laughed, that had such brave true things to say.

—And then you suddenly cried, and turned away.

Alex

(the Traveling-again-Psychiatrist)