Megève: Ski, après-ski & jazz - Traveling Psychiatrist

It’s only been a few years since I took up skiing, now one of my favorite hobbies. So far, I have been on five ski holidays: in Méribel (France), Courchevel (next to Méribel), Zell am See (Austria), Cortina d’Ampezzo (Italy), and Megève. In fact, I have just returned from Megève, and I would like to share my tips for this beautiful French resort, which is also home to an international jazz festival.

But before I do so, I would like to point out that this was the first ski holiday entirely organized by my friend and myself (rather than a tour operator). This turned out to be a great decision, as it saved us money and also allowed us extra flexibility (as far as meals and socializing are concerned).

So, without further ado, here are my top tips for Megève:

Breakfast: Le pain et la patisserie

Our apartment was within walking distance from the center of Megève, so we would often head to the village for coffee and breakfast. My favorite place was a small bakery aptly named ‘Le pain et la patisserie’. Every day, they have a different ‘pain du jour’ (bread of the day), such as bread with dates, figs and pineapple (on Wednesdays) or bread with raisins, orange and hazelnuts (on Thursdays), as well as all the French classics: baguettes, croissants, pains au chocolat, and many more.

This little bakery, quite like most French bakeries, does not sell just bread and pastries; they also sell savory items, such as fresh sandwiches or quiches, which are great for a light lunch, especially if one’s on a budget.

Le pain et la patisserie in Megève — Le pain et la patisserie

Skiing

One of the things I absolutely loved in Megève was the fact that the ski lift to the slopes was right in the village center, and we therefore did not have to take a bus to get there. Even better was the fact that there were several shops right next to the ski lift. We hired our ski equipment (skis, ski boots and helmet) from one of these shops, and also had it stored there overnight. For five days, the cost of hiring the ski equipment was 172 euros, whereas the ski pass costs 240 euros (48 euros/day).

Being a beginner, I decided to have ski lessons to improve my technique. I opted for the École du Ski Français, since they offer ski lessons in groups, both in French and in English, and for different levels. A 5-day course costs 168 euros. The ski lessons are for three hours a day, starting at 10 am each day from Monday to Friday. Added benefits of having ski lessons include the structure they provide to the holiday, and the opportunity for socializing with other skiers from all over the world.

Overall, the cost of the ski-related expenses (equipment, pass, and lessons) for five days was 480 euros.

Alternative activities to skiing

Skiing is far from the only activity in Megève. Weather permitting, you can go hiking, or simply stroll around the village center.

The main sight is the Church of Saint Jean Baptiste (Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Megève), which dates back to the 14th century. From there, you can embark on a horse carriage ride.

The Church of Saint Jean Baptiste in Megève — The Church of Saint Jean Baptiste

On Friday mornings, there is an outdoor market, where vendors sell fresh produce from the region.

Lunch on the slopes…

Once the lessons were finished, it was time for a break. To be honest, I was not particularly keen on the idea of having a meal at the restaurants on the slopes, as the food was both heavy and rather expensive. On my first day on the slopes, I had a tartiflette, the traditional Savoyard dish made with potatoes, reblochon cheese, lardons and onions. On the following days, however, I preferred to have something much lighter. So, I would either have a crêpe at ‘Ok Crêpe’ at the summit of Mont d’Arbois (at 1825 meters above sea level) or head back to the village, take my skis off and go for a light lunch to ‘La Yourte’.

Ok Crêpe at the summit of Mont d’Arbois — ‘Ok Crêpe’ at the summit of Mont d’Arbois

… or in town: La Yourte

I simply fell in love with a small restaurant called ‘La Yourte’. Every time I went, Michael Bublé was playing through the speakers. Overlooking the outdoor ice rink, it offers a small range of local specialties, such as tartines, as well as savory and sweet crêpes (one of each). The soup, served inside a round loaf of bread (rather than a bowl) was a stand-out. Unfortunately, it closes rather early, at 6.30 in the evening, so I couldn’t always have dinner there (unless I’d had a very light lunch).

Après-ski: La Folie Douce

After lunch, I would put my skis on and hit the slopes again. But no skiing holiday would be complete without a bit of après-ski. ‘La Folie Douce’ is situated at the summit of Mont Joux (at 1958 meters above sea level). This world-famous outdoors bar comes alive in the early afternoon (and shuts down just before the ski pistes close). Overlooking the snow-covered mountains, it is somewhat smaller than the one in Méribel-Courchevel (there are eight locations in total). But the atmosphere is as good: skiers and professional dancers dancing on the tables to the sounds of EDM playing. The only problem is that to return to the village, one has to ski down the slopes before taking the ski lift.

An alternative place after a day on the slopes would be the ‘Four Seasons’ hotel. This is about a 40 minute-walk (an uphill climb to be precise) from the village center. The views may not be the best that Megève has to offer, but the drinks are probably the most expensive. In fact, here I had the most expensive Aperol Spritz (prosecco, Aperol, a dash of soda, garnished with an orange slice) in my life (30 euros). Most of the cocktails cost about the same price, whereas a coffee costs 10 euros.

Coffee…

Speaking of coffee, there are not many cafés in Megève, but there is a ‘Ladurée’. Renowned for their macarons, they have cafés in France and abroad. During my stay in Megève, I was a regular having a coffee with a differently flavored macaron each time.

… or tea: Le Comptoir Du Père Sotieu

‘Le Comptoir Du Père Sotieu’ was another favorite of mine. This is a charming patisserie-chocolaterie-salon de thé; the ground floor is the patisserie-chocolaterie, whereas the tea rooms are located on the first and second floor. Their desserts were delicious, as was the tea.

Le Comptoir Du Père Sotieu in Megève — Le Comptoir Du Père Sotieu

Chocolat: La Chocolaterie

Located on the ground floor of the ‘Grand Hôtel du Soleil d’Or’, ‘La Chocolaterie’ is another place to treat oneself after a day on the slopes. It is probably the best place for hot chocolate (prepared on the stove right there). I had mine with a bit of chartreuse (liqueur produced by the Carthusian monks by distilling a secret combination of 130 ingredients: home-grown herbs, plants and flowers), and a slice of passion fruit cake.

Dinner: La Petite Crêperie

In Megève, there are lots of restaurants, ranging from crêperies to Michelin-starred restaurants. Not wanting to spend a fortune, I opted for the former. I specifically chose ‘La Petite Crêperie’, tucked in a small alleyway, not far from the Church of Saint Jean Baptiste. I had a galette (savory crêpe) followed by a sweet crêpe.

a galette (savory crêpe) — A galette (savory crêpe)

On a different day, I had dinner at the nearby ‘Le Bistrot de Megève’. Their mousse au chocolat was simply to die for (I needed at least another couple of people to finish it).

Cocktails: Le Roof Top Bar

My favorite bar in Megève will have to be ‘Le Roof Top Bar’. This is exactly what’s on the tin: a rooftop bar, on the third floor of the ‘Grand Hôtel du Soleil d’Or’. The views are panoramic (not quite 360 degrees, but not far from it) and the cocktails intriguing (and less than half the price of those at the ‘Four Seasons’). My favorite was called ‘L’Incroyable Hulk’ (cachaca, green chartreuse infused with moringa, lime, homemade ginger cordial).

And all that jazz…

The Megève International Jazz Festival (Festival International de Jazz à Megève) takes place every year since 2016. Norah Jones, Gregory Porter and Macy Gray have all performed here in previous years. In 2020, the festival was due to take place from the 26th to the 28th of March, but unfortunately it has been decided that it would be postponed to next year (2nd to 4th of April 2021) due to the Coronavirus pandemic. The line-up will be the same as it would’ve been this year and will feature the American group Pink Martini.

Megève is also home to the ‘Club de Jazz les 5 Rues’, one of the oldest jazz bars outside Paris.

Saint-Gervais-les-Bains

On my way from Geneva to Megève, I passed by St Gervais, a charming village overlooking Mont Blanc. On my last day, I decided to spend the morning there. The village center is full of restaurants, but since I arrived there pretty early, I opted for a lovely patisserie-chocolaterie-salon de thé called ‘Aux petits gourmands’. I had a typical French breakfast: bread and croissant with jams and spreads, orange juice, and coffee (for 13 euros). I then went for a stroll around the village and for some hiking too. St Gervais is part of the same ski resort as Megève and you can get there skiing, or by car (11 km). There is also a bus connecting the two villages with the 25-minute journey costing 3.5 euros. However, there are very few connections, so it’s worth checking the bus schedule in advance.

Getting to Megève

I flew from London to Geneva, the closest international airport to Megève. The transfer time from Geneva airport to Megève is about an hour to an hour and a half (75 euros both ways with Alpybus).

Accommodation

Megève is home to many chalets and hotels, but I stayed at an apartment I’d found on Airbnb (£500 for seven nights).

When to visit Megève

This depends on the main reason for your visit. The ski season lasts from mid-December to mid-April. The Megève International Jazz Festival takes place towards the end of the ski season, when the snow conditions are past their prime.