Leeds: 9 tips by a (former) local - Traveling Psychiatrist

Leeds. Live it. Love it.

This was the slogan of the city of Leeds when I moved there in 2011. I lived in this West Yorkshire city for 6 years. And, boy, I did love it.

Leeds, the largest city in Yorkshire, reminds me of my hometown, Thessaloniki, the second-largest city in Greece. In terms of population, they’re both medium-sized cities (the city of Leeds has almost 800,000 inhabitants, whereas the population of the wider metropolitan area exceeds two million). Like Thessaloniki, Leeds has several universities that attract tens of thousands of students each year. Like many other medium-sized cities, it has a fairly compact center that can be walked within a couple of hours the most. A day or weekend visitor may remain unimpressed, if not disappointed or bored; yet a local may struggle to fit every little gem in a couple of days and insist that you come back to see more.

It’s been two years since I left Leeds and moved to London, but I often feel nostalgic and go back to visit friends and family. Leeds has changed a lot since 2011, and it continues to change. Here are some things that have stayed the same for some time and make Leeds feel like home every time I go back.

1. Leeds Film Festival

When I lived in Leeds, I used to attend the Leeds International Film Festival every November (this year takes place between the 6th and the 20th of November). LFF takes place across multiple venues around the city, including the Leeds Town Hall, and one of my favorite cinemas: the Hyde Park Picture House.

The Hyde Park Picture House

Housed in a Grade II listed building in the student-friendly Hyde Park area of Leeds, this cozy single-screen cinema has been there for over a century now. It usually shows arthouse movies., which I used to enjoy with a mug of filtered coffee and sweet popcorn. Afterwards, I would often go for a burger at the nearby Boss Burgers (sadly they have permanently closed now), and then for a cocktail (or two) at the East Village, on Brudenell Road.

The Cottage Road Cinema

Another favorite cinema of mine is the Cottage Road Cinema, in Headingley. A single-screen cinema, it has been there since 1912 and is the oldest continually operating cinema in Leeds.

2. Cafés

The third-wave-of-coffee culture has recently taken Britain by storm, and Leeds is no exception. The city is home to many cozy independent cafés that I used to visit on a fairly regular basis. Some of my favorites are:

Laynes Espresso

Laynes Espresso used to be a small café right outside Leeds train station; a few years ago, however, it expanded (into what used to be a hair salon next door) and is no longer as small as it used to be. As well as the ground floor, there’s also a cozy basement too. Even so, there may still be a queue, especially at the weekends. The brunch is as good as the coffee, so it’s definitely worth the wait.

La Bottega Milanese

If you’re not keen on waiting, then this spacious and brightly-lit café (with an outdoor seating area, for when it’s warm and dry) on the Bond Court square (less than a 5-minute walk from the train station) should be on the top of your list. Well, I think it should be on top of your list anyway, since they serve Italian coffee as well as Sicilian delicacies, such as arancini and cannoli. The original location on the Calls may have closed a while ago now, but there is a second location in the Light, a place worth visiting anyway. This architectural masterpiece was created in the early noughties by building a glass roof over Upper Fountaine Street and Cross Fountaine Street; an arcade was subsequently created between two listed buildings, Permanent House and the Headrow Buildings. La Bottega Milanese is one of the many shops there.

Mrs Atha’s

Mrs Atha’s is another favorite café of mine. It is located in the heart of the shopping district of the city, close to Trinity, Victoria and the Kirkgate Market (see below). Again, there may be a queue on the weekends, but you will be compensated with their brunch, coffee, and cakes.

Café 164

Past the Kirkgate Market and opposite the bus station, there’s Munro House with Café 164 on the ground floor. This is more than a café, however; it is also an art gallery.

North Star Coffee Shop

On the other side of the river Aire, there’s Leeds Dock, where there’s the Royal Armouries Museum and many waterside apartments around the dock. Here’s also the North Star Coffee Shop & General Store, a spacious and sun-lit café, renowned for its coffee, as well as its brunch.

Opposite Café(s)

A Leeds institution, Opposite Café took its name from the original location opposite the iconic University of Leeds Parkinson’s Building on Blenheim Terrace. The second location is on Stainbeck Lane, in Chapel Allerton, whereas the most recent addition is in the city center, in the Victoria Quarter.

House of Koko

When I worked in Chapel Allerton, I used to be a regular at the House of Koko, a brightly-lit café on Harrogate Road. It was the ideal lunch spot, thanks to its beautiful environment, as well as the food and cakes served there. I’m really missing the figs and goat cheese on sourdough toast, or the chicken and avocado salad served with chickpeas, orange and pomegranate seeds.

Out of the Woods

Back in the city center, but quite out of the way for most residents and visitors, there’s Out of the Woods. There are two of them actually, one in Granary Wharf (off the train station South Entrance), and one on Water Lane (south of the River Aire).

3. Restaurants

According to the BBC Good Food Guide for 2019, Yorkshire is among the top 10 foodie destinations in the world (at number 5, to be precise). Here are my favorite restaurants in Leeds:

Prashad

I’m starting with my favorite Asian restaurant, Prashad. It rose to nationwide prominence in 2010 when it competed on Gordon Ramsay’s Best Restaurant (and finished in the second place). Originally located in the neighboring Bradford, it then relocated in Drighlington, between Leeds and Bradford. Owned and run by a close friend’s family, this is an excellent restaurant offering delicious vegetarian cuisine from the Gujarat region in west India. Even if you’re a meat-lover, it’s definitely worth a ride to Drighlington (advance booking is advised).

Tharavadu

For Indian food, another very good option is Tharavadu, located just a few minutes’ walk from the train station (and next door to Bundobust – see below). The cuisine in the family which keeps the values of tradition (for this is what Tharavadu means) is from the Kerala region in southwest India.

Mumtaz

Following the success of the original Bradford location, Mumtaz opened in Leeds about 10 years ago. Located opposite the Royal Armouries Museum, it overlooks Leeds Dock. As you enter, you’ll be greeted by a larger-than-life picture of the Queen, who dined here some time ago. Chandeliers and a grand piano decorate the very spacious high-ceilinged space. Make sure you order a jug of delicious mango lassi with your (also delicious) food, typical of the Kashmir region of Pakistan.

The Cat’s Pyjamas

The aptly named The Cat’s Pyjamas is another option for Indian food, served with craft beer. It is located on Otley Road, in Headingley.

Ecco Pizzeria

Also on Otley Road, there’s Ecco Pizzeria, one of the many pizzerias in Leeds, but worth queuing for. For it is renowned not only for their wood-fired pizza, but also for their gelato and other desserts.

Brett’s

In Headingley, you’ll also find Brett’s, a small fish and chips restaurant on North Lane. This year, they celebrate their 100th birthday, so they must be doing it right.

The Restaurant Bar & Grill

Back to the city center, the Restaurant Bar & Grill stands out. Located in the landmark Old Post Office building on City Square, just outside the train station, it is a large sun-lit restaurant. The cuisine is European, but it is the environment rather than the food that stands out. There’s also an outdoor seating area ideal for those warm and dry days.

The Oxford Place

Tucked away behind the Town Hall, you will find this small quirky bistro. All the dishes are gluten-free, but will appeal to everyone whether they are coeliac or not. The cuisine is best described as modern British; the lunch menu also includes lighter options, such as sandwiches and toasts.

Zaap Thai

If you like exotic flavors, but want something different than Indian/Pakistani cuisine, Leeds has many Thai restaurants. My favorite is Zaap Thai. Located at the Vicar Lane end of the Grand Arcade, it has a colorful and playful environment where you can enjoy Thai street food as well as exotic cocktails and bubble tea. This is the first of the currently four Zaap restaurants (the other ones are in York, Newcastle and Nottingham).

Caravanserai

For North-African/Middle-Eastern flavors, there’s Caravanserai outside the Corn Exchange (which you have to visit anyway – see below). They mostly do take-aways, but they also have a few tables.

The Man Behind the Curtain

For a fine-dining experience, there’s the Man Behind the Curtain, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Leeds. It may be considerably more expensive than the other ones in Leeds, but it is the right place for those who want to savor what can only be described as haute cuisine. Michael O’Hare’s highly innovative tasting menu includes dishes like ‘hand-massaged octopus’, ‘black cod emancipation’ and ‘wagyu beef olive juice’. All the dishes look like artworks, the cooking techniques are unusual, and the whole dining experience leaves an aftertaste of modernism and minimalism. Reservations in advance are strongly recommended.

El Gato Negro

The newest kid on the block, the third El Gato Negro tapas restaurant, has just arrived in Leeds. It is located on Park Row, where Jamie’s Italian used to be for years, and only a couple of minutes’ walk from the train station. Although I have not dined there yet, I really enjoyed my tapas and cocktails in the Manchester branch a few months ago (there is also one in Liverpool).

4. Pubs

Leeds is no short of pubs either, most of which serve food as well as beer and other alcoholic drinks. Those in the city center are within walking distance from each other, and therefore ideal for pub-crawling if time is short (personally, however, I’d rather spend more time in one or two than go on a pub crawl). Here are my favorite ones:

The Midnight Bell & The Cross Keys

These two gastropubs are located on Water Lane. Despite being rather out of the way, they are within walking distance from the train station, and they are often busy, but not too crowded. I would recommend getting there for their food, as well as for their beer.

Water Lane Boathouse

Also, on Water Lane, there’s Water Lane Boathouse, a spacious waterside pub. Overlooking the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, right before it merges with the River Aire, the outdoor seating area is simply gorgeous, but the interior is also lovely. This is not a gastropub; here they specialize in sourdough pizzas.

The Adelphi

We stay on the south side of the River Aire, where there’s the Adelphi, another gastropub with several rooms, where you can enjoy a Sunday roast or simply an ale in the beautiful Victorian surroundings.

Lamb and Flag

Crossing over to the north side of the river, we now visit Lamb and Flag, a gastropub on Church Row, right next to the Minster. Housed in a recently renovated 19th-century building, it also has a beautiful outdoor seating area.

Crowd of Favours

Located not too far away from Lamb and Flag, Crowd of Favours has a rather different atmosphere, perhaps more quirky and hipster than the other pubs discussed here. Here you can also enjoy live music or even watch a film (on certain nights), or simply admire the art displayed.

The Dry Dock

This is a unique pub located in a boat on land, on Woodhouse Lane. Due to its close proximity to the Universities, it attracts a younger crowd, of mostly students.

Belgrave Music Hall & Canteen, Leeds — Belgrave Music Hall & Canteen

5. Bars

As well as its independent cafés, restaurants and pubs, Leeds is also home to many bars. Here are my favorite ones:

Stew & Oyster Calls Landing

Best known simply as ‘Calls Landing’, this laid-back venue serves food as well as drinks; yet, it is widely considered as a bar. Located on the north side of the River Aire and has an outdoors waterside seating area, as well as a small balcony. Every Monday there’s a pub quiz.

Belgrave Music Hall & Canteen

Belgrave is a hipster multi-level venue, with a spacious ground-floor bar, that turns to a dance floor on Friday night. If you’re hungry, you can either get a slice of pizza by the entrance, or order a burger at the back. There is also a large roof terrace (with a smaller bar, so you wouldn’t have to go up and down the stairs). The middle floor hosts gigs and film screenings, including as part of the Live at Leeds (see below) and the Leeds International Film Festival respectively (see above).

Headrow House

This is another hipster multi-level venue, with an atmosphere similar to Belgrave. I particularly love its spacious rooftop terrace (with a tiny bar, so you wouldn’t have to go back inside). The middle floors often host arts and music events, including as part of the Live at Leeds.

Bundobust

Owned by the same family that runs Prashad, this is the first ever Bundobust (Manchester and Liverpool also have a Bundobust now). It is located next to Tharavadu, and very close to the train station. As well as a wide selection of craft beers and other alcoholic drinks (try the bhang lassi, a boozy mango lassi), they also serve a delicious chai and Indian street food (only vegetarian, but you wouldn’t miss the meat).

Friends of Ham

Also close to the train station, this is a wine bar where you can enjoy continental cheese boards and charcuterie together with a glass (or bottle) of wine. Like their next door neighbor Laynes Espresso, they have also expanded (into a former payday loan soap) thus creating a much larger venue. The basement is warm and cozy, so don’t get disheartened if the ground floor is full. As well as this central Leeds location, there’s also one in Ilkley.

A Nation of Shopkeepers

The ‘Nation’, as the locals often call it, is named after a phrase that Napoleon supposedly used to refer to England. You will find it on Great George Street half-way between the Art Gallery and the Millennium Square. It is a great place for drinks and/or food served in a relaxed environment; you can choose between the spacious indoors area, or the outdoor seating area. There are also live music events, as well as a pub quiz every Monday.

The Maven

Located right between the Corn Exchange and the Kirkgate Market, this prohibition era-inspired first-floor cocktail bar is easy to miss. Despite its not so obvious entrance, it can be a bit too busy especially on a Friday or Saturday night, when it stays open until the not so early hours of the morning; during the week, however, it is much more chilled. Make sure you try their rather strong cocktails, some of which are served in beautiful porcelain teacups.

Blind Tyger

Despite being right next to the Belgrave, this first-floor cocktail bar is more like the Maven. Perhaps elusive is too strong a word to use, but Blind Tyger is certainly not as easy to locate as its next door neighbor. Its address (5½, Cross Belgrave Street) alludes to that. Yet, it is worth seeking it out.

6. Shopping

I normally don’t include shopping in my tips, but today I’m going to make an exception. The reason is that Leeds has some very impressive shopping centers (the Light, Trinity, the Corn Exchange, and Victoria Gate), beautiful arcades, and Europe’s largest covered market.

The Light

I’ve already mentioned the Light, an architectural masterpiece that was created in the early noughties by building a glass roof over Upper Fountaine Street and Cross Fountaine Street; an arcade was subsequently created between two listed buildings, Permanent House and the Headrow Buildings. Amongst others, it is home to many stores and restaurants, a gym, and a cinema.

Trinity

Then came Trinity. Named after the adjacent 18th-century Holy Trinity Church, this impressive shopping center opened in 2013 on the site of the former Trinity and Burton Arcades. Consisting of three levels, it houses a cinema, many bars, restaurants, and stores, some of which had existed as standalone stores and have now been expanded and remodeled into Trinity. Notice the several modern sculptures and the giant glass dome.

Corn Exchange

Not far from the Trinity, there’s the Corn Exchange, a beautiful round Victorian building now housing small independent shops, and occasionally fairs and other events.

Kirkgate Market

From the Corn Exchange, visit the Kirkgate Market, Europe’s largest covered market. Here you can find hundreds of stalls, including greengrocers, fishmongers, and a Marks and Spencer stall. This is not a coincidence, for Kirkgate Market was the founding location of the British retailer back in 1884. One of my favorite stalls is Café Moor, offering mouth-watering Middle-Eastern street food chicken shawarma, boureks, and other delicacies, as well as mint tea. If you fancy something more British, there’s also the Fisherman’s Wife, renowned for their fish and chips.

Café Moor, Leeds — Café Moor at Kirkgate Market

Victoria Quarter & Victoria Gate

Collectively known as Victoria, this glamorous shopping center consists of two sites, separated by Vicar Lane: the Victoria Quarter, and the recently-opened Victoria Gate. The Victoria Quarter consists of three arcades: the County Arcade, the Cross Arcade, and the Queen Victoria Street, the largest of the three, where there are several cafes. Here you can find Harvey Nichols, Vivienne Westwood, Ted Baker and Paul Smith, amongst other stores. The impressive roof ensures that you will be warm and dry whatever the weather, whereas the floor mosaics add to the luxurious character of the arcades. The Victoria Gate is the latest addition to the map of Leeds. This modern yet glamorous site is home to John Lewis, as well as other stores, restaurants and bars.

Victoria Quarter, Leeds — Victoria Quarter

Grand, Thornton’s & Queen’s Arcades

The Victoria Quarter arcades may be the shiniest, but there are also the Grand Arcade, the Thornton’s Arcade, and the Queen’s Arcade. The Grand Arcade is located right next to the Leeds Grand Theatre (on New Briggate) and connects New Briggate with Vicar Lane, whereas the other two are opposite the Victoria Quarter and connect Briggate with Lands Lane. All three of them are mostly lined with small independent quirky stores.

Kirkgate Market, Leeds — Kirkgate Market

7. Music

Largely thanks to the universities and the tens of thousands of students living in Leeds, the city boasts a lively music scene.

Popular venues include the First Direct Arena, a large venue attracting some of the biggest British and international names in music. One of my favorite artists, Cher, recently played there. There’s also the much smaller O2 Academy, which tends to attract less mainstream more indie but still popular musicians. When I lived in Leeds, I saw some of my favorite bands and artists there, including Emeli Sande, Dua Lipa, Jessie Ware, James Blake, and One Republic. The University of Leeds and Leeds Beckett University also host music concerts; for example, a few years ago I saw Marina and the Diamonds at the latter. Then, there are many smaller venues, such as the Brudenell Social Club and the Wardrobe, where I’ve seen two of my favorite jazz/electronica bands, the Submotion Orchestra and GoGo Penguin respectively.

In addition to the above, Leeds has a vibrant jazz scene too. Seven Arts, in Chapel Allerton, hosts regular cultural events, including film screenings, discussions, and intimate jazz concerts. In Headingley, LS6 Café, an all-day café-bar-restaurant also hosts music events (including free-entry jazz nights every Wednesday evening).

If you prefer classical music, check out the Leeds College of Music, where you can enjoy concerts either free or at very affordable prices.

Last but not least, there are two music festivals taking place in Leeds:

Live At Leeds

This music festival takes place across various venues mostly in central Leeds (including some very intimate ones) on the weekend of the VE Day bank holiday in early May. In 2020, it is due to take place on the 2nd of May. It usually attracts up and coming musicians, most of whom are relatively unknown. In the past, however, headliners have included Ed Sheeran (in 2010) and Rag’n’Bone Man in (2017).

Leeds Festival

On the contrary, the Leeds Festival attracts some of the biggest names in the music industry (mostly pop and rock). It shares the same line-up with Reading Festival; they both take place on the weekend of the August bank holiday. In 2020, the Leeds Festival is due to take place at the Branham Park from the 28thto 30th of August.

8. Culture

The arts and culture scene is not limited to music and to film.

The city also boasts a rich theatre scene with a variety of theatrical productions at Leeds Grand Theatre (on New Briggate), Leeds Playhouse (formerly known as West Yorkshire Playhouse), and the Carriageworks (on Millennium Square).

Not far from the latter, there’s the Leeds Art Gallery, housed in a beautiful Grade II building on Headrow. The permanent collection features mostly 20th-century artworks. Here you will also find the spacious and sunlit Tiled Hall Café.

The Tetley is another contemporary art gallery, located in the former Tetley Brewery in central Leeds.

9. Yorkshire

Even though there are quite a few attractions in Leeds, you may also want to consider venturing out of the city and exploring the countryside or some neighboring Yorkshire cities, towns and villages. These are my favorites:

Haworth

Located close to Bradford and Keighley, this small West Yorkshire village is widely known because the Brontë sisters (Charlotte, Emily and Anne) once lived there. The Brontë Parsonage Museum is an absolute must-visit; this is the birthplace of the classic novels ‘Wuthering Heights’ and ‘Jane Eyre’. It is right next door to St Michael and All Angels’ Church. Afterwards, enjoy a cup of coffee and a slice of cakes at one of the many cafés lining the Main Street. My favorite is 10, the Coffee House. Run by Claire, it serves delicious cakes in a beautiful and cozy environment.

Saltaire

Another West Yorkshire village, Saltaire was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. It is home to the Salts Mill, a former textile mill, standing tall by the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, and now housing an art gallery. In Saltaire, you can also find cozy tea rooms as well as Don’t Tell Titus, a newly-refurbished gastropub. You can easily get to Saltaire from Leeds by train (the same one that goes all the way to Skipton).

Skipton

This market town is the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales, and has recently been named the happiest place to live in Yorkshire. It’s definitely worth a visit, even if you’re not planning to visit the Dales. Walk along the Leeds and Liverpool Canal running through the town center. Afterwards, continue your stroll into the town, and finish your visit to Skipton with fish and chips at Bizzie Lizzie’s.

You can easily get to Skipton from Leeds by train. However, you may want to consider driving there, since the route is very scenic, and of course you can then continue your drive towards Bolton Abbey and the Yorkshire Dales.

Bolton Abbey and the Yorkshire Dales

Located in Wharfedale, on the southern edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, the Bolton Abbey estate offers many scenic walking routes on either side of the River Wharfe. In the middle, there are the ruins of a 12th-century Augustinian monastery. From the Bolton Abbey, you can drive further into the Dales, towards the picturesque villages of Grassington or Malham. All over the Dales, you will come across many cozy tea rooms and pubs promise to quench your thirst.

Ilkley

On your way back to Leeds from Skipton or the Dales, stop at Ilkley. Walk around the town center, then have a cup of tea at Betty’s or a glass of wine at Friends of Ham, or even watch a film at the tiny Ilkley Cinema (used to be the smallest of its kind in Europe).

Harrogate

Harrogate is a posh spa town about half an hour north of Leeds (on the train). If you have a car, however, I would highly recommend driving there, as the route is very scenic. Halfway between Leeds and Harrogate, there’s the Harewood House, an 18th-century mansion with collections of Turner paintings.

Some people may remember that Harrogate hosted the Eurovision Song Contest in 1982; the locals probably want to forget that fact though. Harrogate is also famous for hosting an annual crime-writing festival, but also due to its connection with Agatha Christie. When the world-renowned English crime writer disappeared from her Surrey home in 1926, she was actually hiding in a Harrogate hotel. More recently, in 2015, Harrogate was named the happiest place to live in Britain.

Walk around the Montpellier Quarter, then take a stroll to the many parks nearby. Finish your visit to Harrogate with a cup of tea at Bettys Café Tea Rooms on Parliament Street. This Yorkshire institution was founded here exactly a century ago, in 1919. Nowadays, you can also find them elsewhere in the county: in Ilkley, Northallerton and York. In Harrogate, there’s also a second, less central, location in Beckwithshaw.

Knaresborough

Halfway between Harrogate and York, the lesser-known Knaresborough is worth a stop if you’re driving. One of the landmarks in this small North Yorkshire village is the railway viaduct over the River Nidd.

York

Continue to the photogenic York, a beautiful city north-east of Leeds (only 20 minutes on the train). Founded by the ancient Romans over two millennia ago, it is now a popular tourist destination and for very good reasons. The most famous landmark is undoubtedly the York Minster, the city’s Gothic cathedral, located in the heart of York. The city center is enclosed by medieval walls, which are a popular walk. So is the bank of the River Ouse, flowing through the city. Another landmark is the Shambles, a narrow medieval street, lined with boutique shops and tea rooms. Clifford’s Tower and York Castle, on the other hand, are rather underwhelming.

York has a large number of cafés and restaurants; yet, I always end up in St Helen’s Square, where the York branch of Bettys Café Tea Rooms is located. Brew & Brownie has two locations, both on Museum Street, and is a good choice for both coffee and cake, or even brunch, whereas the riverside House of the Trembling Madness on Lendal is a beautiful place for both food and drinks. So is The Old White Swan, a traditional pub on Goodramgate.

Brew & Brownie, in York — Brew & Brownie

House of Trembling Madness — House of the Trembling Madness

Huddersfield

I lived in Huddersfield for two years (right before I moved to Leeds) and I still have a soft spot for this large Victorian university town (the 11th largest in the UK) located between Leeds and Manchester.

The railway station, a neo-classical Grade I listed building was described by John Betjeman as “the most splendid station façade in England”. It is also home to two world-famous cats, Felix and Bolt. These station cats rose to fame thanks to Kate Moore’s books ‘Felix, the Railway Cat’ and ‘Full Steam Ahead, Felix: Adventures of a famous station cat and her kitten apprentice’.

In Huddersfield, you’ll also find a variety of cafés (Coffeevolution was my favorite when I lived there), tea rooms (such as the old-fashioned Choosy’s Tea and Coffee House), restaurants (unfortunately, my favorites have now closed), and bars (I loved Vox).

Wakefield

Located only 9 miles south-east of Leeds, Wakefield is the closest city to Leeds. The main reason to visit would be the Hepworth, an art gallery on the south bank of the River Calder. Named after the Wakefield-born sculptor Barbara Hepworth, it displays work by her as well as other local and international artists, including Henry Moore, who was born in the neighboring town of Castleford. After your visit to the Hepworth, continue to the Castle, a cozy gastropub in Sandal.

Yorkshire Sculpture Park

Depending on the weather, you may want to continue to the Yorkshire Sculpture Park, an open-air gallery south of Wakefield. Like the Hepworth, it displays sculptures by both British and international artists, including (once again) Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth.