• Greece,  Traveling

    Mykonos: Top 7 tips by an (almost) local

    I have to admit that I had always thought Mykonos as little more than a party island destination and a celebrity-magnet. However, the first time I set foot on this Cycladic island, Hora, the capital and main settlement, simply took me by surprise. I remember wandering around the narrow, labyrinthine alleyways, taking pictures of cats napping, or of the blushing bougainvillaeas climbing up the walls of the whitewashed houses, churches and chapels. Even though I am not religious, I was mesmerized by the Church of Panagia Paraportiani and the Life Giving Spring Orthodox Metropolitan Church.   Tip 1: Stroll around Hora   Start your day with a coffee at Passo…

  • Greece,  Traveling

    Koufonisia: Top 9 tips by an (almost) local

    I have to admit that I had never heard of Koufonisia until a couple of years ago. Perhaps, this is because these three Cycladic islands are really really small. Actually, only one is inhabited: Ano (or Pano) Koufonisi (‘Upper Hollow Island’). Au contraire, Kato Koufonisi (‘Lower Hollow Island’) and Keros are not. Interestingly, when Greeks say ‘Koufonisia’, they usually refer to Ano Koufonisi, rather than all three. Despite their close proximity to Amorgos and Naxos, these tiny islands are considered remote and often described as ‘hidden gems’, ‘off the beaten track’ or ‘undiscovered paradise’, even for Greeks and Italians, who are the main visitors.   Tip 1: Wander around Hora…

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  • Greece,  Nutrition

    Recipe: Alex’s portokalopita (orange pie)

    Amorgos is one of the Greek islands I’ve recently visited, as well as one of my favorites. Hora, the capital of the island, welcomed me with a palette of colors: blushing bougainvillaeas climbing the walls of white-washed houses and blue-domed churches and chapels, with their doors and window shutters painted blue, red or green, matching the chairs and tables scattered around the cobblestone alleys. Lost in the snarl of these very alleys, I came across Kallisto, an inviting little café-patisserie. I had a slice of portokalopita (orange pie), which was indulgently served with vanilla ice-cream.     Returning home, I set to re-create Kallisto’s portokalopita. A quick Google search brought me…

  • Greece,  Traveling

    Amorgos: Top 9 tips by an (almost) local

    If you asked me which my favorite Greek island is, I would struggle to come up with an answer. Yet, Amorgos would be among the first to spring to my mind. The easternmost of the Cyclades islands may not be as popular as its famous neighbor Santorini, but, cliché as it may sound, it is one of the most beautiful and charming Greek islands. In the last few years, however, it has been popular with the French, since it featured in Luc Besson’s film ‘Le Grand Bleu’ (‘The Big Blue’). It is a medium-sized island (for the Greek standards) with a population of 1,973; it is 18 miles long and…