Santorini: Top 9 tips by an (almost) local
Santorini (or Thira, as it is also known as) is the southernmost island of the Cyclades. One of the most famous as well as the most visited Greek islands, it can become quite hectic in the summer. Yet, this is the best time to visit. Here are my top 9 tips to avoid falling into the tourist traps, and have the best experience.
Tip 1: Do not avoid Oia (but avoid the hordes of tourists)
Oia is one of the two main settlements on the west coast of the island (Fira is the other one). Built on a steep slope of the caldera, this charming hilltop village is worldwide famous for its sunsets and can often be overcrowded with tourists.
Get there early in the morning, as this is when it tends to be at its quietest. Wander around the narrow streets and admire the blue-domed churches before you stop at Atlantis Books, a bookstore that is now considered among the must-visit places in Oia. Panagia of Platsani, Saint George and Panagia Agion Panton are among the most beautiful churches and also worth a visit.
Come back in the evening to watch the sunset (read tip 8 for my favorite places in Santorini to watch the sunset).
Tip 2: Escape the crowds in Fira
Fira is another hilltop village on the west coast of the island. Escape the crowds and walk along the caldera-edge pathway towards the villages of Firostefani (15-minute walk from Fira) and Imerovigli (half an hour walk from Fira). You can watch the sunset at the small church of Agios Georgios, or at Volkan On The Rock, a café-bar that serves coffee, as well as excellent food and cocktails (read tip 6). You can even watch a movie there, at the open-air cinema. After dinner, go back to Fira, to the Kira Thira Jazz Bar.
Tip 3: Get off the beaten track in Pyrgos
Get off the beaten track and go to the inland village of Pyrgos Kallistis (or simply Pyrgos), built amphitheatrically at the highest point of the island. You know what comes next: panoramic views of the whole island (not just the caldera) make this the perfect place to watch the sunset that Santorini is worldwide famous for (read tip 8). Stroll through the narrow, labyrinthine streets, and then experience the Greek hospitality and local cuisine at Penelope’s Ouzeri, a small traditional eatery, or at Brusco ‘wine. coffee. deli’ (read tip 6 for my favourite places to eat).
Tip 4: Visit Akrotiri
The archaeological site of Akrotiri, on the southwest coast, is an ancient Minoan city that had been buried beneath volcanic ash from 1,650 B.C. up until 1967. It is estimated that the settlement was constructed around 4,500 B.C. Get there early to avoid the crowds (read tip 5 on what to do afterwards).
Tip 5: And then go swimming (in the sea)
Hotels with an infinity pool on the edge of the caldera are a great place to stay; yet, Santorini is also famous for its black-sanded beaches and turquoise waters.
Once you visit Akrotiri, go to the beach of the same name and take a caique to Aspri (White) and Mavri (Black) Beach, or walk to Kokkini (Red) Beach and swim against the backdrop of red cliffs.
Another great beach is Vlyhada, also on the south coast of the island; here you can have a cocktail at Theros Wave Bar, an all-day beach bar, or lunch at one of the waterside taverns around the picturesque harbor.
Tip 6: My favorite places (and foods) to eat
Santorini is famous for delicious appetizers not normally found elsewhere in Greece. Try the ntomatokeftedes (tomato balls/fritters), the locally-produced cheese (hlorotyri), fava (yellow split-peas) and white eggplants.
To get an authentic culinary experience that doesn’t cost a small fortune, here are my favorite places to eat in Santorini:
- Metaxi Mas, a restaurant at the inland village Exo Gonia, that many consider the best one on the island. It may not be on the cliff edge, but it still offers panoramic views.
- Volkan On The Rock, a café-bar in Firostefani that serves coffee, as well as excellent food and cocktails (the menu is by Ergon Greek Deli & Cuisine).
- Penelope’s Ouzeri, and Brusco ‘wine. coffee. deli’, at the village of Pyrgos (read tip 3).
- The Cave of Nikolas (Spilia tou Nikola), a seaside tavern within walking distance from Akrotiri (read tip 4).
- The waterside taverns in Vlyhada (read tip 5).
Tip 7: Drink some wine (and then some more), but don’t drive
Greece is a wine-producing country; yet Greek wines are not widely available abroad. Locally-produced Santorini and Vinsanto wines are both made from the indigenous grape Assyrtiko; the latter is a sweet dessert wine.
Have some wine with your meals, but also go to the SantoWines Winery, a great place to try the island’s wine and to watch the sunset (read tip 8 for my favorite places in Santorini to watch the sunset).
According to the European Road Safety Observatory, Greece is by far the worst performing country among the older EU Member States, with the highest fatality rate. DO NOT DRINK AND DRIVE.
Tip 8: My favorite places to watch the sunset
In Oia, Sun Spirit is a good place to sit down, enjoy a cocktail and watch the iconic sunset (read tip 1).
If you find yourself in Fira in the evening, walk along the caldera-edge pathway towards the villages of Firostefani (15-minute walk from Fira) and Imerovigli (half an hour walk from Fira). You can watch the sunset at the small church of Agios Georgios, or at Volkan On The Rock (read tip 2).
The inland village of Pyrgos offers panoramic views of the island and is far less hectic than Oia and Fira (read tip 3).
SantoWines is another good place to watch the sunset from and also to try the island’s wine (read tip 7).
Tip 9: Watch a movie under the stars
Watching a movie under a sky full of stars is one of my favorite things to do in Greece in the summer, and I would highly recommend you try it.
Volkan On The Rock, a café-bar in Firostefani (15-minute walk from Fira), also has an open-air cinema.
Another open-air cinema is Kamari, situated in the village of the same name, on the east coast of the island.
How to get to Santorini
In the summer, there are direct flights to Santorini from Europe (as well as from mainland Greece). There are also daily ferries from Athens; the fastest take about five to five and a half hours and arrive midday (SeaJets, approx. 60-70 euros; Hellenic Seaways, approx. 60 euros). Check out the ferries timetable here.
If you’re planning to visit several islands, the Eurail Greek Islands Pass is worth considering.
When and how long to visit
For me, the best time to visit the Greek islands is the summer, as this is when the ferries are at their most frequent, the weather at its warmest and the atmosphere at its best. If you plan do continue your holiday to less popular islands, July and August are the best months for island-hopping. If you only visit Santorini, you may also wish to consider May, June or September. I would recommend staying there for at least three days.
Accommodation
Accommodation in Santorini can be quite expensive. If your budget allows it, why not choose one of the 59 hotels with an infinity pool on the edge of the caldera. These are located on the west coast of the island (Oia, Fira, Imerovigli, Firostefani). Even if you cannot afford to stay in one of these luxurious hotels, I would strongly recommend you stay on the west coast.
Further reading
To better prepare for my trip, I used the Lonely Planet Greek Islands Travel Guide
If you’d like a book to read whilst on holiday, check out my post ‘Crime & Fjords: 9 Scandinavian writers you should read’.
Santorini is the perfect gateway for an island-hopping holiday. Read my 2-week itinerary around the Cyclades here.
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Have a great journey!
Alex
(the Traveling Psychiatrist)